Wall of Winter Warmth

BETA PHOTO: Lower Dream Canyon

Description 

This particular rock is likely the tallest in Lower Dream Canyon with lines up to 4 pitches in length. Some older routes dating back to at least the 1960s are mixed in with newer bolted lines from the 2000s. This granite is steep, featured, and devious in spots. There is still loose rock and plenty of guano in spots, so be careful! This entry was made to help organize the Lower Dream Canyon area.

Descent: You can rappel, you can scramble off to the R, or you can hike around to the R from the top (be careful of tourists & fisherpeople below). Loose in spots but improved over the years.

L->R:

Lowest buttress
A. Escutcheon, 10, 1p, gear.
B. Mini Moe, 2, 1p, gear.
C. Closed Open Space, 9, 1p, 50', bolts.
D. Alpha Bob, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. Leader of The Pack, 11+, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
F. The Slit, 9+, 1p, 100', gear.

Main buttress
G. On The Bough, 11+, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Angle of Repose, 11+, 2p, 180', bolts.
I. Left Side, 10-, 3p, 400'?, gear.
J. Cop Out, 9 R, 3p, gear.
K. Direct Cop Out, 10, 3p, gear & bolts.
L. The Titleist, 11-, 2p, 190', gear & bolts.
M. Right Side, 10-, 3p, gear.
NN. Mordor, 12, 2p, 150', bolts.
O. The Prisoner, 12-, 1p, gear.
P. Bed Hog, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

QQ? Melons, 9, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

Refer to directions noted in the Lower Dream Canyon. Park at Boulder Falls, hike up to the hole up & L of the Falls, drop down to water level. There are single bolts set for an exciting Tyrolean but it may be best to climb during low water of fall, winter, or early spring when you can hop across on boulders or wade more manageable currents.

Featured Route For Wall of Winter Warmth

Left Side 5.9+  CO : Boulder Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth

The Left Side could be a lost Boulder Canyon Classic. This is a very dramatic, challenging, and impressive route that takes the most direct line up the huge Wall of Winter Warmth. For a complete and rewarding ascent, try The Slit (9+, recommended and described below) or one of the newer bolted routes on the lower slab to the left (Alpha Bob 12a on the left or Leader of the Pack 11c/d on the right) as an approach pitch for a three star WWW outin...[more]

Add Photo Photos of Wall of Winter Warmth

BETA PHOTO: Routes at the bottom of the Wall of Winter Warmth,...	BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Wall of Winter Warmth. Left Side rou...	BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
The Wall of Winter Warmth as seen from below Bould...