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Witches' Tower Climbing
Routes in Witches' Tower
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It's My Swamp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nala T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Direction Home S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pumpkin Eater V5-6 6C+ |
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Romancing the Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scarecrow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Teenage Terrorists S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tese S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tipskin Jihad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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War is Love S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Wisk, The V0 4 |
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Witch Hunt V10-11 8A |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,750 ft |
| GPS: |
40.0022, -105.395 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 33,975 total · 141/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is up to a 140 foot high buttress or rib of rock that connects with Sherwood Forest across the creek from the Riviera & Bihedral about 7 miles upstream from the Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock area. It is initially less than obvious that it is a separate rock unless you are Boulder Canyon cognoscetti or until you peruse R. Rossiter's 1999 Boulder Canyon guidebook. Apparently there have been old routes done or attempted low on its steep W face. Since this original post, there has been some lines with bolts and gear added. Certainly, from a distance, evidence of such lines or attempts is difficult to discern. However, a shallow dihedral on the NW edge draws the eye. The less-steep North face also invites the adventuresome but has more lichen.
Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.
You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.
Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.
L->R:
A. It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)), 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Nala, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Tese, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
J. Scarecrow, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
Expect some lichen and loose rock if you explore here. There is room for more lines for those willing to explore. Expect some shade.
You can descend off to the East on steep slopes. No anchor currently exists on its top.
Several new routes were added in the fall of 2005.
L->R:
A. It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
B. Panic Attack (AKA BOB...Bombs Over Baghdad)), 12-, 1p, bolts & gear.
C. War is Love, 11, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
D. Tipskin Jihad, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
E. Teenage Terrorists, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
F. Romancing the Stone, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
G. Nala, 10-, 1p, 100', gear.
H. Tese, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
I. No Direction Home, 11-, 1p, 45' or 95', bolts.
J. Scarecrow, 8+, 1p, 45', gear & bolts.
Getting There
Go to Boulder. Drive West on CO Hwy 119 (aka Canyon). Drive West about 7 miles upstream past Elephant Buttresses/Dome Rock. Park in a nice pullout with some shady trees on the South side of the road below the Bihedral (near a sign stating 1000 feet to Boulder Falls per Benedict Rasmussen). Walk 150 yards downstream to a tyrolean traverse that starts on a big flat boulder and goes to a big tree on the far side. Cross the tyrolean and head left on a trail heading downstream. After a few minutes you'll reach Witches' Tower near the route Romancing the Stone. Just uphill and right from this is Sherwood Forest.
Classic Climbing Routes at Witches' Tower
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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