Black Widow Slab is the large rock located just right (west) of Vampire Rock, 8.5 miles up Boulder Canyon. A number of good sport climbs can be found on the clean north face and several ice climbs form on the northeast face during good (wet) winter months. This is a good spot to escape the summer heat and enjoy some quality climbing in a beautiful setting.
L->R:
A. Kate Moss, 10, 1p, 120', bolts. B. Consilience, 11, 1p, 140', bolts. C. Left Side, 9 R, 3p, gear. D. Gyromancy, 11- PG-13, 1p, 65', bolts. E. Dracula, 12, 1p, 80', bolts. F. The Spectre, 10+, 1p, 80', gear. G. Resonator, 12+/13-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear. H. Bong Session, 10-, 1p, 100', gear. I. Pipe Dreams, 12, 2p, 100', bolts. J. F*** You!, 11, 1p, 80', bolts. K. Bands of Gold, 11+, 1p, 80', bolts. L. Center, 8, 3p, gear. M. Wired, 10-, 1p, 70', gear. N. Smoke Down, 11-, 1p, 60', bolts. O. Caught In The Web, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
Getting There
Drive 8.7 miles up Boulder Canyon and park in a large pullout on the left across the road from the Boulderado. Head down stream for a couple hundred yards and ford the creek. Hike up a gully and reach a good trail that goes along the base of the rock.
I am going to go out on a limb here. This is one of the best slab route in the area. This climb offers continuous, quality climbing up a near vertical face/slab on knobs and small edges that lead to expose moves out a small overhang just below the anchor. A longer and better version of the "Scientist" with a hard move to gain a ledge near the top. The route starts on the northeast face of the rock just left of the old "Left Side" route. Climb up ...[more]
Does anyone know what the sport route is that is just right of Dracula? It doesn't appear to be documented anywhere? I believe it's a Steve Damboise route? Bolted a couple years ago?
Black Widow Slab
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