This rock lies across the river and uphill of Castle Rock to the Southwest. It faces somewhat Northeast and gets a little sun in the AM, I figure, although I have never been on it then. It does get some mid-day sun for sure. This rock is not to be confused with the solid, nice granite and long routes on Castle Rock. Its proximity to a good crag was not a contagion, and it is a fact that this rock is less desirable, with the right buttress being the least so. The cliff is also considerably smaller and closer than it appears to be at first. The cliff has two main buttresses, Right and Left, as Rossiter refers to them in Boulder Canyon Climbs- the difference between the two being self-explanatory. There are a few each of trad and sport lines. There are no must-do classics on this crag of which I am aware. There seem to be some "don't bother" lines, and some "Don't do them even if you are passing by" lines. My own personal experience at this crag has been negative. The one line that calls from below, 'short but sweet' is a dihedral capped by a roof. This called me up to the crag, but left me with a terrible taste in my mouth, particularly as my partner was rained on by kitty-litter-like rock for most of my time on the route.
L->R these may be:
A. Mountain Rose?, 10- R, 1p, gear. B. Golden Rose, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts. C. unknown, 10, 1p, gear. D. unknown, 11, 1p, gear. E. The Ancient Of Days?, 9 X, 1p, gear or TR. F. Time Lords?, 7 R, 1p, gear. G. Hummingbird?, 5, 1p, gear. H. War Drums?, 9, 1p, gear. I. Sick Puppy?, 12, 1p, bolts. J. Heatwave?, 10, 1p. K. Short But Sweet, 8, 1p, gear. L. Better You Than Me?, 8 X, 1p, gear or TR.
Getting There
From Castle Rock, look over the stream and uphill. You can clearly see the crag. Go left (South East) from the direct river crossing to catch a good talus field to ascend up and right to the crag at its right edge. At the base you will encounter the covered aqueduct, which at first glance appears to be an old road- until of course you hit the manhole cover. This "road" makes a nice trail along the base that goes completely the length of anything you might consider worthy of climbing.
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