Chuck Grossman doing it right in boxer shorts and ...
Description
There are a number of classic climbs on this 350-foot rock, one of the earlier crags in the canyon tackled by local hardmen in the 50s, 60s, and 70s. When Robbins and Ament freed Athlete's Feat (11a) in 1964, it became the hardest free climb in America. Virtually all the climbs here are traditional, multi-pitch crack routes. The rock tends to be a little slick. Exit off the top to the north, scrambling down some class 3 and class 4 ramps and ledges.
There are a couple more modern testpieces, Headline 14- & Deadline 13+/14-, on this crag.
There is a gravel road that circles around the west, south, and east side of the crag. It is a popular spot for other recreationalists besides climbers.
Getting There
About 12 miles up the canyon, Castle Rock looms up on the left side at the apex of a right hand turn. Turn off just past the rock to a large dirt pullout directly underneath the west face. Talk about easy access!
A Boulder Canyon classic test piece!! The first pitch has the crux right off the ground and involves some 11c delicate face climbing past two bolts. Finish this pitch by climbing the awkward 5.9 crack to a good belay ledge.The second pitch is the endurance crux. Sustained 5.10 crack climbing leads past a small roof. Hold on because the crux is still to come. Some thin and insecure finger jamming (11a) up a smooth face for 15 feet is the meat of t...[more]
Does anyone know what the deal is with the new direct start to the sweet crack on Never A Dull Moment. It is really only one bolt above the original first bolt but it allows passage into the start of the amazing second pitch crack without doing the silly slab traverse start of the original route. Who added and sent this logical and way better start?
Castle Rock
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