From the standard route on Sunlight Peak leave the trail at about 13,700' and head up a steep slope to the base of the summit block. This approach is 3rd class but rather loose and steep for about 300 feet.
A short 5.7 pitch leads to the base of the overhanging crack. This crack is a perfect size for jamming but is rather sustained and made more difficult by the altitude. The start is made easier by a ramp you can work your feet along, but the ramp eventually is too far left. The crack reminded me of Supercrack where every move may be "only 5.9" but it is sustained and difficult to recover, especially at nearly 14,000'. Look for places for wired stoppers and smaller cams to save hand-size pieces.
Near the summit the angle kicks back to vertical which makes it slightly easier. A fixed anchor on top facilitates 2 raps back to the base.
You can also aid the crack at A1, which would require a significant rack. The first ascent proceeded up a somewhat different route, however. Instead of tackling the crack from the bottom, my father climbed an easier crack system to the notch NW of the spire. From here the upper part of the free crack is only about 7-10 feet to your right. Climb right, clip a bolt and pendulum or tension traverse into the crack and follow it to the summit. The advantage of this line is that it would not take a huge amount of gear to aid. However, I do not recall seeing this bolt during my ascent, and it may be gone.
This is a decent climb, but it is a long way to carry a rack for 60 feet of overhanging crack.
Please add comments if you try the aid variation. I've not heard of anyone doing it since 1961.
Location
SW Face of the summit "Obelisk".
Protection
Standard rack to #3 Camalot.
History
This route was freed by Jeff Achey when he was leading a group of Outward Bound students. He free climbed the crack using only a few hexes and stoppers for protection. I don't know if any of the students were able to follow his lead.
Photos of Standard Route, Sunlight Spire Slideshow
This climb took me several attempts. I made it to the base of the technical climb once (with my wife belaying) just as it started to rain. Several years later, when approaching with "rope gun" Tom Karpeichik, he pulled on a huge solid-appearing block during the 3rd class approach, and it broke free and tore up his leg as it slid past (he received a nasty laceration that required stitches). After Tom was patched up and walking down, Bill Wright was descending from Sunlight Peak and we teamed up for the ascent, but by this time it was late and looked like rain. We topped out just as a thunderstorm was coming in, and immediately rappeled off.
Hey, my friends and I made the slog from Purgatory to climb the 14ers and this route. We had a blast; it's an incredible area. If anyone is interested in a 2009 trip report with photos, click here:
I climbed this route on 9/4/09. While the crack has many good hand jams, it undulates between finger locks and cups, with many difficult thin hands sections in between. A good rack would be doubles or triples of #0.75 through #3 Camalots. The 5.7 section can be easily combined with the upper crack in one pitch. The approach ledge to the climb is not bad at all. The anchor needs work too, and currently consists of a 1960s vintage 1/4" cap/hex head bolt with poor hanger, an ancient 1 1/2 inch angle pin that can be lifted out of its placement by hand, and a green Lowe Tricam with a UV deteriorating sling. I think it's a sandbag at .10b, and felt more like .11- with the altitude. The severely left-angling nature of the crack makes this climb very difficult (tough feet).
As to the grade this climb: our party believes after our August trip that the route goes at 5.10a. We climbed with two teams (two leads and two seconds), before the route got full sun in the morning. After scrambling the first pitch, the first party led the crux pitch with no falls; the next group followed with one exciting fall, followed by an enjoyable break on the summit. We rappelled off the fixed anchor, using an unweighted secondary anchor for safety. The last man had no problem trusting the anchor for a rappel. We all had a blast on this climb, because of the spectacular setting and the incredible summit pitch. This is a highly recommended climb for those solid at the grade and those who don't mind a long approach hike.
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