This is the MEGA-COOL Ridge traverse of the Glacier Gorge cirque. Starting with Arrowhead and cruising the ridge crest all the way over to Long's. It's a great long day at altitude, with some wonderful and exposed scrambling/climbing. It incorporates a few classic routes, including the North Ridge of McHenry's (5.4?),the West Ridge of Pagoda (5.7), and the Southwest Ridge of Long's (5.6).
There are several ways to run this ridge.
I like to start at Arrowhead, and go counter-clockwise, so Longs is at the end.
Hike to Black Lake, approach Arrowhead by skirting the lake on its east side and cruise grass ramps up to the base.
Head up to summit of Arrowhead via the Summit ramp (4th class), or any other way you like. Head up the wonderful North Ridge of McHenry's, with great rock, and exposure. 5.4ish? at the hardest.
Then down and across Stone Man Pass, and up over Chiefshead. This is the easiest and most dull part of the traverse, and it's still very mellow and scenic. Head down, and across the Chiefshead/Pagoda Col, and start up the sick West Ridge of Pagoda.
This route begins with wild sidewalks in the sky, then large overhangs on the ridge push you out North. Way exposed face climbing! 5.7ish. Skirt around on the North Face, until you can gain the crest again and then the summit.
Soak in this killer summit, and push on towards Long's. Pass behind the Keyboard of the Winds, surmounting one or two scrubby walls en route.
And make a beeline for the Southwest Corner. This route lies directly above the Narrows section of the Keyhole route. Climb nice cracks and flakes right to the summit (5.6).
This arete is incredible, and makes an astonishing finish to a very aesthetic day.
Location
Gain the Glacier Gorge ridge at Arrowhead, and follow it ALL the way to Longs Peak! You can't miss it.
Day after wishing I didn't live in a 3 floor house. 3 hrs from car to top of Arrowhead at 7:30am - to top of McHenry's at 9:45 -to top of Chiefshead at 11:45 - to top of Pagoda at 2:30 - 3pm to col 'tween Pagoda and Keyboards - bailed there due to hail/rain and my late start. Attempted to go thru overhangs on S Pagoda but last 20' or so seemed like hard 5.10ish so had to reverse all my moves to ledges, maybe 100' of 5.8 - 5.9 downclimbing, then wasted maybe another 30 - 40 min on wandering about on N. Face... up 100' and back down 2-3x on sketchy lichen covered N face tryin to get back up to crest again. 14 hrs car to car (Arrowhead to Keyboard/Pagoda col - 3pm started descent to car). No water at all once you start Arrowhead Summit Ramp - carried 4 liters for the whole day.
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