BETA PHOTO: The East Buttress of Arrowhead viewed from the sou...
Description
Begin from Ledge 1 about 10 feet right of the Inside East Buttress route. 1a. Climb the crack on the right and bridge up through a slot into the main crack (a short squeeze chimney at first). Jam fists and hands to a good stance behind the Bullet (10c, 80 feet). 1b. Climb a wide crack on the left as for Inside East Buttress, then work up and right to the top of a pinnacle (the Bullet) in the main crack (10a, 80 feet). 2. Continue in the same crack (mostly hands) into an awesome overhanging wide crack (crux, up to 12 inches). Bridge and jam to a fantastic stance on the right (can belay here). Jam a final hand crack (9) to Ledge 2 (10c, 100 feet in all). Move the belay to a slot beneath an obvious left-facing dihedral. 3. Bridge up the slot then jam and stem the dihedral to Ledge 3 near the top of the East Buttress (10a, 100 feet). Rappel the route from slings around boulders or escape north and west over the top of the East Buttress and scramble to a junction with the South Ramp. BTW, this route was first comepleted as a rope-solo by Richard Rossiter a few days before it was climbed conventionally with Pebby Johns.
This route is dedicated to all our brothers and sisters in arms who have selflessly and willingly placed themselves in harms way in the name of FREEDOM. We all know, or should know, that freedom is not the motive or driving force behind any war in recent history including Vietnam and the "War on Terror." If you are a soldier, this is what you are told. "Your mission is to defeat the Communist insurgent forces and protect the democracy of South Vietnam or to liberate Iraq from tyranny." You try hard to believe this or how can you risk you life, pull the trigger and kill another human being you don't even know. The role of a soldier is noble and honorable; the scheming, treachery, greed and lust for power behind war is travesty. It is iniquity itself.
Location
Hike and scramble directly up from Black Lake and gain the big alcove between Lost Arrow Spire and the East Buttress of Arrowhead. FMJ ascends the south face of the East Buttress about 10 feet right of Tommy Caldwell's recent climb (Inside East Buttress). It is also possible to follow Ledge 1 north all the way from the southeast shoulder of Arrowhead to the big alcove.
Protection
Standard alpine rack from 0.25 inch to 5 inches plus several slings for chockstones and chicken heads. Bring a double length sling to belay at the Bullet.
Rappel anchors are in place (slings with rings) at Ledge 2 and Ledge 3.
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