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Routes in Rock Of Ages
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Black Tie T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Brain Stem S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Celestial Gate T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Center Dihedral T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Days of Heaven T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Desolation Angels T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Greensleeves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hats Off T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Heavenly Daze S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Multiple Blues T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Nameless Demons T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Original Sin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pitch Perfect T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Rope Rider T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Telekinesis S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Wasp, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Topher Donahue |
| Page Views: | 20,527 total · 95/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Mar 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
The Wasp may be THE best single pitch, trad, granite route of its style and difficulty in Colorado! There are a couple single-pitch routes in CO that come close, but this is a unique gem combining great rock, super aesthetic moves, and great pro. In my opinion, California fine-grained granite has always catered to more memorable crack pitches than almost anywhere in CO, except for this very spot (and parts of the Platte).
A word about ratings. I had heard a couple comments from climbers who felt that The Wasp does not warrant a 13a rating, and to be honest, neither did I. But...I did not onsight it, and I completely sieged the route by fully inspecting gear placements and moves on rappel. How can anyone accurately rate a climb? It is so subjective and with any climb there will always be many factors that will obviously affect the perception of difficulty. At the time I redpointed this route, I knew a couple climbers who came close but only 2 climbers who had onsighted it, and I am assuming each was a true onsight. To onsight the Wasp without ANY prior knowledge of the moves OR the gear placements is an awesome accomplishment. En route, there are some cryptic sections and a couple of moves where you must bear down, but in general the climbing is more cerebral, and there are no stopper crux moves. On the other hand, the gear requires some thought in a few placements, but as a whole the route protects beautifully. Every climb is different. The Wasp was for me easy to learn. I believe this would be the same for most. Nonetheless, it is a worthy and challenging climb whatever you decide to personally rate it.
A word about ratings. I had heard a couple comments from climbers who felt that The Wasp does not warrant a 13a rating, and to be honest, neither did I. But...I did not onsight it, and I completely sieged the route by fully inspecting gear placements and moves on rappel. How can anyone accurately rate a climb? It is so subjective and with any climb there will always be many factors that will obviously affect the perception of difficulty. At the time I redpointed this route, I knew a couple climbers who came close but only 2 climbers who had onsighted it, and I am assuming each was a true onsight. To onsight the Wasp without ANY prior knowledge of the moves OR the gear placements is an awesome accomplishment. En route, there are some cryptic sections and a couple of moves where you must bear down, but in general the climbing is more cerebral, and there are no stopper crux moves. On the other hand, the gear requires some thought in a few placements, but as a whole the route protects beautifully. Every climb is different. The Wasp was for me easy to learn. I believe this would be the same for most. Nonetheless, it is a worthy and challenging climb whatever you decide to personally rate it.
Location
Located on the upper tier of ROA between Greensleeves and a Tommy Caldwell 13- fully bolted route (which is left of a Topher D. torturous corner route) is The Wasp. Start at a flake that becomes a straight in crack. Near the middle, the route zigs left and zags right to a rest before the last leftward stretch to the top and the bolted anchor.
Protection
Bolted anchor, one pin (last piece), an assortment of standard and "offset" nuts through the size range but mostly in the medium range, double cams from Metolius #0 TCU through flexy WC Friends #2.5 (three 1.5 Friends), and runners including double-length. Double rope technique could be helpful due to the zig-zagging nature of the line.
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