BETA PHOTO: This photo was copied from Paddy McCarthy, as it s...
Description
This is a great two pitch variation "In Between" the Hesse-Ferguson and the Culp-Bossier. Start with the Hesse-Ferguson for its first long pitch.
1) From the grassy ledge, step right into a white, right-facing dihedral and climb to its top below a large roof band. Turn the roof on the left side, then make a spicey traverse above the roof's lip approximately 50 feet to the right and belay around an arete in a hanging, right-facing corner. This pitch is sustained 5.8, and the traverse offers one place for protection (which used to have a #2.5 Friend fixed under a flake about midway through). The quality of the traverse is superb, but it takes a good head and some route-finding to link the correct edges and nubbins. (5.8 S, 165 feet).
2) Climb the beautiful hanging right-facing corner above you, with awesome stemming and fingerlocks, and take the pitch to the large terrace at mid-height on the wall. (5.9, 140 feet).
Finish with any combination of routes on the upper wall.
Protection
Standard rack. Double ropes may be useful to eliminate rope-drag on the traverse. One might also consider belaying the traverse as a separate pitch, but this is not absolutely necessary.
Photos of In Between (aka Right Dihedral) Slideshow
I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me.
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 14, 2008
Thanks for the comment Brian. I climbed this maybe 10 years prior to posting the route, so my memory was a little vague, especially on how well the traverse protected. I figured it was better to make it sound spicier than maybe it is (according to your comment on the protection), just for climbers who aren't as comfortable with run-outs or traverses.
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