This is the less-than-vertical line which called out from a distance to be climbed.It follows a line up the prow linking protectable features in 3 pitches. Stretches are quite pleasant. The rock faces S or SSW and enjoys good sun. Its elevation is equivalent to upper MacGregor Slab. You can enjoy views of Fall River, Deer Mt, Sheep Lakes, & even the Y couloir of Ypsilon if you wander L on P3. Allegedly, bighorn sheep will wander down near this rock occasionally.
To approach, start at the Lawn Lake Trailhead (Fall River entrance), hike up to the beginning of the 7th switchback. The first 2 switchbacks are very short. As you begin this 7th switchback, the rock comes into view. Proceed up the slope crisscrossed with game trails. Find your way up this slope to the back of the rock. Expect a 45 minute approach.
P1. Find the R side of the apron. Follow a broken section with cracks, flakes, & shrubs to a R-facing dihedral about 90 ft up. Break L into a crack system onto a slab. Follow nice, shallow, double cracks (crux) accepting thin cams. You can either follow the R crack as it curves R or the straighter L crack (more aesthetic but still dirty) to a ledge with a bush. Angle up & R to a thin slab with mediocre pro (#0.75 & 1 Camalots) to a big ledge with a large, parasitized tree. 190ft, 5.8.
P2. Two starts are available here. You can go directly above the tree in a small RFD to a thin slab (5.8+ PG-13) or go R to a thin crack next to a LFD. Both starts merge 25 feet up. Continue more-alpine terrain to small saddle of sorts about 80 ft up. (You can exit off R to hiking terrain here). Here you can (recommended) move L onto a flake and gain a crack at a small overlap, follow the fun crack until it ends, & then climb a delightful face to a ledge & belay. (There is an exquisite looking slab of the nose to the L of the crack which may be done with someone with bigger ovaries). Alternatively, you can move R and follow alpine cracks to the same belay. 150 ft, 5.7 or 5.8+ PG-13.
P3. Move up & L on broken terrain to a good ledge. Here, you have numerous choices of lines. You can wander up & L towards a couple small pillars on an easy, high-friction, climb-anywhere slab to the top of the shoulder with plenty of opportunity for protection. Alternatively, you can traverse R and gain the second wide crack and follow this to the R side of the above slab to the top of the same shoulder. 200 ft, 5.7. You can scramble off from here.
P4. Can be done to the top on easy-looking terrain for another 50-60 ft.
Descend off the back scrambling & hiking going around the R side of the rock. If needed, it could be rappelled with natural features and double 60m ropes.
1.6 stars.
There is a beautiful-appearing orange slab to the L of the prow about mid-height.
Protection
Wires, Aliens, cams to #3 Camalot, a couple hexes, 60m rope. Extra small Aliens useful for P2 L crack variation.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
