Josh Janes follows on pitch 3 of 'Celestial Gate' ...
Description
Celestial Gate - what a phenomenal route! May even rival Days of Heaven.
P1: Do the dodgey original start or, better yet, do P1 of Days of Heaven, but walk the belay to the far left end of the foot ledge to the base of a nice finger crack.
P2: The crux pitch, but probably only 5.11. Climb up the steep finger crack with some creativity until you pull into a welcome fist-jam size constriction. This is where Days of Heaven P2 joins with the crack - follow it up to the super cool belay ledge below the hand crack.
P3: Follow the hand crack up for a few moves then reach left and clip a bolt. Follow the tremendously exposed bolted arete past a total of five bolts up to a nice belay ledge near the top of the wall. This pitch offers some fantastic, exposed face climbing, but if you're not in the mood you can do an 11b finger crack variation by following Days of Heaven for a bit before cutting out left on a thin crack, then up. Soft for 11c?
More info on P2, the crux and essentially a 30' variation to P2 of Days of Heaven. The first 20' feet protect well with small nuts; the rest of the pitch uses finger size gear -- you can get by with a very light rack. I found a stopper move about 10' up and did not have much problem with the subsequent endurance moves.
For P3 you need a couple of thin finger to hand size cams for 15' of crack climbing at the end of the pitch.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Aug 16, 2004 rating: 5.11+
Classic- at least as good as Days Of Heaven. I imagine made the best if you continue P2 straight into P3 for one long amazing pitch. Grade? 11c or 11d. The original first pitch is not that bad and not that runout where it matters. It probably is close to 10a, but there are just a few moves around the slab to the right and the gear on the left is up high, where it would produce a reasonably safe fall. As well, there is an option to go up right on the corner and place a so-so red alien, though getting to and down from that might be the hardest move on the pitch... still advisable if you like to feel sewn up. The second pitch was not the crux for me. Though I followed it, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow. The stances for placing gear are substantial enough to shake out on and frequent enough to be mostly on TR. The Third pitch is small balancy holds- felt like the crux to me and spit me off a few times- hope you have some shoes that edge or hold small chips well.
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Jul 27, 2009 rating: 5.12a
"Though I followed it, it probably isn't much different- lead or follow." (quote from above comment)
Is this some sort of joke??
By Dusty From: Fort Collins Aug 11, 2009 rating: 5.12a
From my experience, Jeff, it's actually easier to lead this climb than to follow it. I've only followed it, however.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Aug 11, 2009 rating: 5.11+
To answer the question you asked, No it's not "some sort of a joke." Did it sound like a joke or something? There are climbs where you clip an easy piece over your head from a good stance then do a simple power move. The lead and follow on some pitches like that are pretty much the same, as it takes as much effort to clean as to place. So I think it's a great route for people pushing that grade to attempt on lead. I've lead and followed enough pitches at the grade to figure that out. Of course, the entire comment I posted already said that, but you managed to either ignore or eliminate that context when you partially quoted me. Is this some sort of nit-pick? Seriously....
By Dusty From: Fort Collins Aug 12, 2009 rating: 5.12a
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