This route should probably be added to the database for a variety of reasons. First, the current description under the YELLOW WALL omits the last pitch, which is probably the crux of the FF, and second, the YELLOW WALL is not the FF, and vice versa, as much as we would like to say we've climbed the Yellow Wall of the Diamond when we climb this variation (see comments under YELLOW WALL).
I suggest the YELLOW WALL entry in the database be revised to describe the actual Yellow Wall climb and not just the easiest path up this part of the wall.
Pitches 4-6 of the Forrest Finish involve pretty burly and sustained hand/fist crack climbing. There isn't any 5.10 offwidthing as stated in the Gillet guide, but it's still pretty darn physical. It goes without saying that this type of crack climbing is pretty draining at 13,500+, and will probably feel more like 10+/11- if you're not well acclimitized (as is usually the case).
To start, climb the first 3 pitches of D7 or YELLOW WALL to the right side of Crossover Ledge, each of which is 10-. The D7 variation to FF (called KOMITO FREEWAY) is actually the path of the first free ascent of the DIamond by Goss & Logan, though they apparently switched over to BLACK DAGGER in the middle of the 6th pitch.
P4- From the right side of Crossover Ledge (with the BLACK DAGGER slot looming above), climb up about 20 feet until you can find a rightward traverse that leads over to the FF crack system (5.9). Climb the crack system to an obvious intimidating flare/OW. Climb the OW with the help of a crack on the left (5.10) and contnue until rope drag stops you in your tracks and belay (150 feet).
P5- Continue up the crack system through an OW (guide calls 10a but it felt more like 5.8/9). Rest and then climb the burly, sustained hand/fist crack past some awkward pods (10) to belay alongside the Yellow Wall bivy ledge (100 feet).
P6- More wide hands (10) leads to a good rest with multiple options above. The BLACK DAGGER system is the leftmost and looks like it is probably the easier way to go. The FF takes the right variation and climbs a funky, insecure lieback (10) up into a slot. Awkwardly climb the slot via a mix of kneebars and face features in the slot (10) up to Almost Table Ledge (150 feet).
The FF continues up from here via 2 more seldom-climbed 5.9 pitches to the top of the Diamond. The usual option is to traverse left to a short right-facing dihedral where a pin protects a 5.8 move up to Table Ledge.
Descend following the D7 rappel route (6 raps) to Broadway and then 4 raps to the side of the N. Chimney to the Mills Glacier. The alternate option, which is probably faster, traverses over to Kieners and follows that, skirting the summit, to the N. Face cables descent. The disadvantage to the latter option is that you have to hike a grueling 400 vertical feet up Kieners late in the day and that you can't stash your gear at the base of the wall.
Protection
Set of nuts. Set of cams with doubles in hand sizes (#1, 2, and 3 Camalots). #4 Friend. Tape gloves would have been nice.hand/f
By Scott Bennett From: Westminster, CO Aug 15, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
Just did Yellow Wall -> Forrest Finish Wednesday (8-13-08), and found the last pitch of FF before Table Ledge to be quite wet. I'm sure this is not too unusual, and we were able to get through it okay (pulling on gear), but I just thought I'd give everyone a heads up. -Scott
Joe, it makes a lot less sense to say we climbed the Forrest Finish than to say we climbed Yellow Wall. We called our climbed the Yellow Wall not because we really want to say we climbed the Yellow Wall, but because that name makes the most logical sense for what we did climb, as all but two of the pitches (one on FF, the other on Casual Rt.) we climbed were on the original Yellow Wall. I've said all along that Pat's description should be revised, or a new description written to represent the A4 traverse. But how could we say we climbed the Forrest Finish when we only climbed one of the four pitches (we stepped over to the bivy ledge after the first--which is certainly the most popular way to climb this section of the wall)? Gee, how could you have the gall to say you've climbed the Forrest Finish when you skipped half of it just because the upper pitches are "seldom climbed" (sound familiar?). Whatever.
I did not mean to imply that the persons who entered the Yellow Wall description did not climb the Yellow Wall. Given that this entry is supposed to describe the route, I didn't want to go into a lengthy discussion regarding what constitutes the "Yellow Wall" route. Instead I refer the reader to the Yellow Wall comments. Maybe I didn't get my point across very well, but all I'm trying to say is that we probably should have separate entries for the Forrest Finish and Yellow Wall (via the 11- R traverse and 10+ finish, both of which I have not done, BTW) with a comment somewhere regarding (for lack of a better name for the variation) Yellow Wall Jr. It's really just a matter of semantics over deciding what name goes to which route, but for such a famous route, we should probably stick with what has traditionally been called the "Yellow Wall" for the database entry.
Forget if it is the Yellow Wall proper or not, it is a spectacular finish. Steep, clean, and relentless. Hard for me to call it 5.10, but then what do I know about grades at that altitude.
The only exception I'd take to the above, is that there is no ow. When the crack diverges from the Yellow Wall, the section right above seemed to be about 5 feet of full on, body in the crack OW, or face climbing of at least a harder grade. Also, there was a second spot above that where I was full on knees and hand stacks. I guess you could skirt it if you are a strong face climber, but it sure was ow to me.
Brian- it's not all that clear to me what you're trying to say from your comment, but I think I make it pretty clear in my description above that I've climbed the Forrest Finish (see the "climbed on" date).
Joe- My comment was not meant to suggest that your description was inaccurate. I am glad that you posted the FF. I'm headed up there this weekend to check it (or the dagger) out for myself, and like most everybody else, I'll pass on the 5.11 traverse.
All quibbling aside, this route is freakin awesome and a great way to get up this wall at 5.10. The last pitch to almost table is as good as it gets and I'll never forget the position, exposure and perfect splitter to end the climb. -JG
Fear turns to anger, anger turns to hate, and hate leads to suf~fer~ing.
By William McGehee From: Choctaw, OK Aug 22, 2005 rating: 5.10c
Linking D7 up with the Forrest Finish is really an excellent combination. My only concern is that I became a tad confused with the upper reaches of the Forrest Finish and the actual line. It appears there are many possibilities, some easier than others, but all challenging nonetheless.
Regarding the offwidth crack, I found the climbing MUCH easier if approached in a fashion similar to the squeeze on the Casual Route. Should you be carrying a pack, sling it to your butt. Put the BIG gear on your waist so it doesn't hinder your progress, and just thrutch your way on up! WONDERFUL line indeed.
Finally, about 40 feet below Table Ledge, there is a bolted anchor with a chain, positioned underneath an aid climb. Anyone know what this aid line is? It's rather short, though I felt it was approximately A2+, according to Stewart Green's published grading scale. I'd sure like to know what it is called. Two pitons, a small nut placement, RURP, Copperhead, finally an optional small nut placement to get onto Table Ledge if it's wet (and dark...). Great day! Even if it did take 26 hours...
Did this route 8/31/05 w/ Black Dagger finish to Table Ledge. The 2 'seldom climbed' pitches above Table are surprisingly challenging & a tad mossy, but totally beautiful and recommended if 1. time/weather allows, and 2. crowds on the Casual Route prevent you from traversing to the last 2 pitches of Yellow Wall. Steep climbing in a pretty wild location. More frequent ascents would clean up the cracks and lengthen an already amazing route. Probably wet in early season.
If your going to do the Forest Finish, then do the whole thing and don't bail out at Table Ledge. The bottom of D7 or the Yellow Wall are both great ways to get to the route and the upper pitches are well worth the extra effort. This is a great route and in my opinion the second easiest route up the Diamond.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 15, 2008 rating: 5.10
I'm not exactly sure how we broke the pitches up, but what I recall most distinctly about the climb F.F. is that we combined pitches rather than belaying at the prescribed spots, and at one point ran up 70 meters of sustained jam cracks for 1 pitch- mostly good hands, with a short corner switch in the middle of it. Wonderful climbing.
By Kevin Stricker From: Evergreen, CO Jul 15, 2008 rating: 5.10c
Crossover ledge to Yellow Wall Bivy ledge is 70M, and is an awesome full value pitch.
The Diamond
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