Named after the rogue-trickster Stone Monkey of 16th Century Asian literature, this climb provides one of the best difficult trad leads in RMNP. On the left side of the wall find a 5.9 dihedral leading to Middle Earth ledge, or an easier variation just left of this (it is possible to third class to ME ledge in this area). Climb an easy ramp that forms the right of two prominent dihedrals, belaying before a right-facing flake. Climb the flake (5.9ish) to its top, then scratch right across a blank wall to a semi-hanging belay (good 5.10, no pro, exciting swinging opportunities for both the leader and second). Climb the flake system up right and continue to a good ledge and belay. Pitch 5 is the business, a 5.9 undercling to a right-facing corner which leads to the sustained, under-vertical tips crack (crux). The climbing is more face climbing than a finger crack, although there are finger jams to be had- if you have tiny digits you will be happy. Small gear (many RPs), good shoes, and positive thinking will bring you to another nice belay ledge, with hard-to-find anchors but nice wildflowers. Above is a longish 5.8 crack pitch which leads to easier climbing to exit. Early season the crux crack can seep. Much average climbing, but the crux pitch is stellar.
Protection
Double set RPs to 3" cam. Extra RPs, small wired nuts, and TCUs. Good edging shoes.
One may also access the crux pitch of Stone Monkey via Three Stoners. To do this just head up and left on flakes after the 5.9 corner, aiming for the spacious ledge below the crux .12a finger crack. It is also possible, and recommended, to climb the last pitch of Obviously Four Believers (same exit pitch as Three Stoners), thus avoiding the loose blocks on the Stone Monkey exit. This is the crack system R of where you end up at the top of the .12a crack. A healthy selection of small wireds (Rocks, Stoppers, etc.) work well in addition to RPs for the crux, and have a couple of TCUs handy for pro after the hardest moves.
By matt bruton From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 25, 2008
I must be missing something in the route description, but I only see 5.10 no 5.12a. Any help?
By matt bruton From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Oct 14, 2008
Thanks much! I'm looking at .12 thought this might be a good start? Have .11d Trad 6 pitch down in Oregon..... Never-mind, I'm probably not ready for .12a. Yet thanks for the info anyway. Steve and Bob. MB.
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