Days of Heaven 

this is possibly my most favorite route in colorado

Alec Sharp was also involved with of the first ascent-my apologies. Rock and Ice # 105 carried a story in their "Goldline" section mentioning that Sharp (who the article was about) had done the second ascent, and Sharp wrote back correcting them (and mentioning that it was one of his favorite first ascents).

Some extra beta (from an ascent on 7/8, leading every pitch): P1-the roof here is really not well-protected at all, and the rock is a little friable. Once you reach up to the jugs, you're pretty committed to mantling the roof. Also, this time I belayed directly above the groove and the stance was much better, though the gear is very small. P3-have 2 #2 friends ready for the crux at the top! Pitches 2+3 would go together as one with a 50M rope, and that would probably be the ultimate pitch in Colorado!

Perhaps I (and my partners) missed a trick sequence, but the second pitch felt more like 11b. To me, the third pitch was fairly straightforward and was far easier than the second. Tom Isaacson

Having done this route twice now, I agree that the second pitch is the hardest--I don't think there's a trick! My partner on the most recent ascent had done some 5.11s in Yosemite the week before (including the Rostrum), and felt that the second pitch might deserve 5.11-. It's easily the hardest pitch I've ever led cleanly, despite others that had higher grades--and the first time on it, last summer, it whupped me.

Which part did you feel was sandbagged--the step-across move, or the finger crack after (or both!)?

This route protects better than advertised, I feel. I found the first pitch to be reasonably easy at the grade, relative to the second two pitches. I protected it well on a few stoppers below the roof and found the roof to be easy by grabbing the jugs and cutting to the right as I pulled the lip. There upon I found more decent gear.

As for the second pitch, I am a shave shorter than average, but with disproportionately long arms and legs. The "step-across" move on P2 to the good foot was easiest by moving up high on the right before stepping over and down to the good foot, then doing a near-splits to set the right foot up high for a push, then leaning out to a left hand in the finger crack. I felt that this was probably honest 5.10d.

As for the third pitch- I should have rested to break the two up. The beginning of P3 was easy, but where it went to 1.25" I had a hard time getting hands and feet in. I was wearing my bathroom-slippers-like loose wide-crack shoes, having just blown out one of my thin-crack shoes on a previous climb... I swapped to a layback and got my butt kicked when I was pumped at the crux. If you are not rock solid on 5.10d, I'd suggest breaking P2 and P3 up, not running them together.

I think the scary thing about the P1 roof is that it seems quite commiting, and if you fall, you'll probably hit the ledge/block below. Oddly enough, this pitch was my first ever 5.10 lead, and I was so charged up that I didn't even notice. It was two years later when I led it again that I found it rather terrifying. I later talked to some local climbers (5.11 leaders) who concurred with this opinion. I would agree, however, that the moves aren't hard for .10a, and it's fairly juggy. If you're quite solid on 5.10 it should not be any problem, but if not, beware...

I think that there are at least two distinct ways to do the second pitch step across. I led this pitch and made the step across move at about the height that the traverse flake peters out. From this height I had a good cam in the flake and an ok purple Metolius at about head height on the face. There are a few small but positive edges here for the hands and thin feet. I'm just under 5'10" and from here it wasn't that far of a reach to get a left foot into the crack. Once the left foot is established, moving the left hand into the crack felt pretty secure. Maybe I was just in the adrenaline flush of the moment, but I felt that this move was solid 10/10+, but no harder. I thought the balancy crack above it was more sustained and difficult. My partner who followed the move went to a good handhold that had chalk on it that was a few feet higher than where I traversed from, and that looked to be a good bit more reachy and difficult. Any way you do it, its an awesome route. A little taste of Yosemite in our own backyard.

This has got to be one of the best and only truly splitter cracks around. The second pitch is certainly the crux, but if you have no idea how to jam, you're screwed. The last part of the second pitch is sustained, but is not all that bad. When the flake peters out, you have about 15-20' of a few 5.10/5.10+ moves to the belay. This climb is worth what everyones says about it, even if it is short.

Back again, 2 years later. Still great and will go back again. This time I led P1, followed P2, and led P3 again. The P1 ceiling is well protected and pretty easy. Get your shoulder into the ramp/corner and place a green Alien above. Then swing left (!) on jugs--definitely NOT obvious. Big holds and easy to step up. The P3 step across is easy now that I know what to do--I wrote it down last time. Memory is fading... Work R foot up the flake until you can reach a flat almost jug. Smear L foot and then, key, is to get right foot onto the slab high at hiplevel on a small but decent edge. Then step down left into the crack. Because right foot is set, it's easy to lean across and grab the crack. For the finger crack you really want 3 or more yellow Aliens or equivalent. It's pretty hard, but more tenuous than hard, if you walk the crack using the crack on the right as long as you can. The final thin hands section went better this time, but not perfect. Had to hang once or twice before getting a high piece. Then lowered and did it. I think I was trying way too hard last time. Having just gone to the Montral Splitter Camp at Indian Creek and doing lots of thin hands certainly helped!

After pitch 1 is dispensed with, pitches 2 and 3 offer perfect rock, awesome exposure, and splitter cracks. Highly recommended.

I did Days of Heaven for the third time last weekend and I have to say, this climb is as incredible as everyone says! I think the step across move is probably 5.10d with excellent protection. The final pitch is truly beautiful and will test your thin hand jamming technique.

If pitches 2 and 3 are combined, it makes one of the finest pitches around. I found the gear to be relatively good on the first pitch (stoppers) when pulling the roof and in the 9 slot. As for the grade, 10d is right on, the cross over move and finger crack being 10c with bomb proof gear. This route is one to do over and over.

Guidebooks call the 3rd pitch the .10d crux. Most agree that the technical crux is on the 2nd pitch. I have never talked to any two people who have made the traverse move in the same way. First pitch is a little exciting but not really scary, even for the timid. Some say this is one of the finest short .10s in Colorado and in my limited experience, I would agree. Indeed a route worth doing over and over. Best to rap the anchors on climbers left off the top of the route. One can also get in a good TR burn on neighboring route.

I've never done the walk-off. We used a rappel anchor just west of the top of the route and were down in now time. One rappel with a 60m puts you on an easy slab and about 100ft from your packs. We did choose to belay down to the rappel anchor, which is a little ways below the top of the cliff.

Tricky route, especially pitch two. Pitch 3 finishes with 20 feet of green cam sized splitter. Green cams with no feet means 5.11 to me, but it is pretty short.

Difficulty of P2 and P3 is related to hand size - smaller hands would make P3 significantly easier. P2 is more technically difficult, very balancy. Overall a great route - just wish every pitch were longer!

If you rap off the route to the climber's left of Days of Heaven, FYI there is a ton of loose rock up there.