1.5 stars. Not as good as the Right and Center lines on this apron. P2-4 are decent.
Another line up this slab. We discovered on this trip to do another line up this "climb anywhere you want" slab/apron that it may not be as "climb anywhere" as described. Sorry. Probably too much detail on this route:
Initially, an effort up the middle between Right and Center routes, there is an inviting thin crack. It has a pin about 35-40 ft up. Then it gets thinner and more runout. So, my partner bailed and rapped. Too close to the ground and far enough from the car...
Second try, further left. Not sure if this is entirely independent from the Second Apron Left side 5.8+s described by Darin Lang [on] this site. However, verbal descriptions don't quite match. On the L side of this buttress there is a 3rd-4th class ramp.
P1. About where this start to go up, went up & found a shallow L-facing dihedral that was inviting but pro was marginal. About 50 ft up here, you dance out R on rounded face holds aiming for a overlap with what looked like pro opportunities but given the marginal cams below you're looking at a groundfall from 60 ft up if you don't make it. So backed down, moved L into a somewhat grungier section that is probably wet during less-arid years. Looking for moderate ways up & R onto the main apron to the R, followed an arc to its L end but backed down and traversed left to a 1-1 1/2" crack & a stance. 200ft of dancing but 100 ft up, 5.5. One of my partners 3rd classed up the ramp to here.
P2. Move up & L, aiming for a short, wide, zig-zag crack to gain this upper layer of good granite on the apron, then move up & generally slightly R as you dance back and forth on solid granite. For a small landmark, there is a right-pointing flake next to a thin crack, both of which take wires, that you pass to the R. For a larger landmark for the rest of the climb, you generally aim for just R of the what-appears-to-be two short, bulging headwalls (goalposts) at the top. Aim for a small ledge with a flake on the L & a good hex slot on the R. 200 ft, 5.7.
P3. Move about 10 ft L & into a shallow, L-facing dihedral with some vegetation. Move up to a raised flake on the R, slot a wire, move back down slightly and then R. Gain a nice foot ramp with finer grained granite. Arc R & then L, climbing over a L-facing dihedral, aiming for an A-shaped overlap. Place a wire. This overlap protects a fair bit of moss/lichen still present. Delicately smear L & move up into the apex (crux) to gain a good finger/hand slot. Balance up. A foot traverse L & up gets you to a good ledge. 200 ft, 5.8.
P4. Continue up the dihedral & R, go up a short slab on slightly crumbly holds, move R into a slot angling R & up. Go up & then L along a short arête to a huge ledge & belay. 2 hexes and a wire. 180ft, 5.7.P5. Lots of exits here are possible. A nice, short, steep, finger to offwidth crack gains 3rd-4th class terrain.
P5. A short bit of 5th class moves to the L and then back R into a slot pops you up on top. 105 feet, 5.6.
To descend, move down and right into the loose gully R of the R-most apron. Contour along the R-most apron, and then up to your gear (if you left any at the base).
It may be possible to exit L from P1 or P2 onto 3rd-4th class terrain. Sun until 230p in August.
Also, cell phones work well up here if you are on call, expecting a call or baby, etc.
Protection
Wires, hexes, single set of cams to 3 1/2", 60m rope useful.
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