This climb is a less-traveled alternative to the Hourglass Couloir route on Little Bear that ascends the impressive northwest face of Little Bear. It connects with the Little Bear-Blanca ridge near the summit of Little Bear. Most of the work is picking your way through the 3rd class talus and scree at a fairly high angle. Two points on the route _may_ require the use of pro: gaining the "shelf" above the "Black Hand" on the rock, gaining the ridge close to the summit. People have reported being able to pass the "black hand" to climbers right while keeping it 4th class.
Once you've passed the "Black Hand", follow the steep 3rd class gullies up to a more level area. Head up and right to a weakness in the ridge. You may want to simul-climb to the top of the ridge, continuing to the summit.
Follow the road above Lake Como until it gets close to the talus fields. You'll see the "Black Hand" feature as you ascend the road. Once past the "Black Hand" on the road, follow the talus high point back to the base of the Black Hand.
Protection
Sparse alpine rack, when you can find decent rock to place it. Arguably, only needed for one or two pitches. Did I mention a helmet?
I've scoped out this route and there are several places one could start. Is the black hand visible in this Photo?
One problem I've noticed is that snow or hail lingers on this face, and it's not clear how much harder this will make it.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Oct 2, 2008 rating: 4th Mod. Snow
Like mentioned in the report mentioned above and the description, the rock is not all solidly attached.
I had a near-miss soloing this route as a stupid kid in late October 2001. Everything was covered with an inch or two of recent snow; I pulled off a large loose block; slid; took a 20'? 30'? fall over some ledges; and I was very lucky that I caught myself and didn't take a 500' tumble down to the lake. I'd've gone back down but going up seemed easier. Glad I did. Enjoyed the rest of the climb and the traverse to Blanca. Beautiful day and a beautiful place to be. I was the only one in the Como Basin that day.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 15, 2009 rating: Easy 5th Mod. Snow
I really dig this route and have been up it three times. George Bell, the Black Hand is visible in that photo you reference in your comment but it's hard to make out from that angle. It's just down and right of the center of the photo coming out of the "shadowed" area. I've always stayed right of the black hand and then moved back left above the black hand and into the "rock basin" above, then straight up to the ridge. It might be very low fifth class that way but mostly loose fourth class.
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