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Alpine Rock 


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Lat, Long: 40.2565, -105.6569 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 11, 2005

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Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of a Thunderstorm
57° | 37°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
66° | 37°
Partly Cloudy
59° | 30°
Partly Cloudy
63° | 37°
Clear
70° | 43°

Longs Peak Diamond and boulderfield.
Photo by Blit...


Description 

This "area" is for alpine rock climbing in Colorado. Alpine is probably the true "Mountain" Project terrain. These routes truly lie in the mountains. This is the terrain of the alpinist, the all-arounder. Generally here, you must be comfortable in whatever the environment will throw at you.

Alpine is the home of the marmots and pikas in the warmer months. In the colder months, this is the land of the frozen. Scattered here is the terrain in which weather, exposure, season, loose rock, ice, snow, route-finding, lightning, precipitation, and altitude can dramatically affect one's experience. All these climbs involve heights of at least 8,000 ft. With these factors comes increased risks but potential for increased rewards and memories that can last a lifetime.


Getting There 

These climbs cover the state from the Crestones, the Sangre de Cristos, the Mosquito Range, the Collegiates, the Sawatch, the San Juans, the Gores, the Front Range, the Elks, the Indian Peaks, the Mummy Range, the Never Summer Mountains, Rocky Mountain National Park or whatever range you wish to include. Look high and you will find them. You will drive but then you will hike, since most all of these will require some extended approaches. Some will require overnight trips. Nearly all will have season considerations for the majority of climbers.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Alpine Rock:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Long's Peak : Upper East Face
Little Bear-Blanca Traverse   5.0     Trad, Alpine   Blanca Peak
Kiener's Route   5.3 Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   Long's Peak : Upper East Face
Wham Ridge   5.4 R     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 2000 feet, Grade III   The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak
Northeast Ridge   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III   RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth
North Ridge   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade II   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Ellingwood Ledges   5.7     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   The Crestones
South Face   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III   RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
Culp-Bossier   5.8+     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III   RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
The Flying Buttress   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker
Syke's Sickle   5.9+     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade III   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Casual Route   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV   Long's Peak : The Diamond
The Barb   5.10-     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Days of Heaven   5.10d     Trad, Grade II   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet   Long's Peak : The Diamond
D7   5.11     Trad, Alpine, Grade IV   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Spear Me the Details   5.11d     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Ariana   5.12a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV   Long's Peak : The Diamond
The Wasp   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95 feet   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Browse More Classics in Alpine Rock

Featured Route For Alpine Rock
Kirk Miller starting the face in early August, 150' below Torreys summit. A short step, 40 degrees maybe, separates him from the wide open snow.  Then another choke, partly hidden, guards the junction with the left (west) fork and more steep turns. Like the North Pole at A-Basin for 2,000+ feet.  You can see where the snow just ends, with no safe run out of snow.  <br />

North Face Ski Descent Mod. Snow R  CO : Alpine Rock : Torrey's Peak
Torrey's "Big Ol' Strip of Snow" is visible from Interstate 70 at the Bakersville exit. The Tuning Fork is another name that gets used. About 1,000 meters of ski descent are possible. Hike or skin the road from the Grizzly Creek road up to the Grays Peak Trailhead. If there is enough snow, leave the trail at the footbridge and skin up the creek (see map photo). After getting back on the trail at the wilderness sign, it's best to take off the skis and hike the trail from here to the Grays...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Alpine Rock Slideshow Add Photo
I was going to take a shot of Ken on the summit, he said, "you might want to take a shot of what's behind you."  These guys were right on top of us.

I was going to take a shot of Ken on the summit, h...

Quite the gathering of juveniles. <br />

Quite the gathering of juveniles.


Kelso summit goat.

Kelso summit goat.

Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.

Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.

Mt. goats.

Mt. goats.

One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Lenawee Mountain lift at A-Basin.

One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Len...

Hi there, guys!

Hi there, guys!

Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorado's San Juan Range.

Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorad...

The Diamond.

The Diamond.

La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.

La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.

Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.

Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.

San Juan Vista

San Juan Vista

Remote San Juan Wall.

Remote San Juan Wall.

To serve, to strive . . . .

To serve, to strive . . . .

Grazing rights.

BETA PHOTO: Grazing rights.

Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .

Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .