Bachar-Yerian without bolts!
Submitted By: John McNamee on Jul 14, 2008
I stole this from over on supertopo ... I've stood below this climb and looked up and that's as far as I got!
Many would agree that the Bachar- Yerian (5.11c R/X) on Medlicott Dome in California's Tuolumne Meadows is one of the finest routes in the world, on the most perfect sheet of golden granite, in one of the most beautiful alpine areas in the world.
The Bachar- Yerian takes a stunning and knee-trembling line up this vertical 500ft face, protected by 9 bolts (a #4 Friend and slings over knobs), all placed on the lead by John Bachar. The climbing is characterised by pulling on a sea of chicken-heads or knobs, often the size of peanuts, that stick out from the rock.
19 year old George Ullrich of Kendal attempted the route without clipping the bolts.
See the video and read the extended report at:
http://new.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=07&year=2008>>>>>
Mick Ryan.
Link to supertop thread
Comments on Bachar-Yerian without bolts!
By john strand Jul 14, 2008
| I saw this too and was blow away ! I have done the first pitch and literally became woosey when looking at the rest of the route. Take a VERY serious route and eliminate the only good gear- AWESOME !!!
john |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Jul 14, 2008
| Yipes, why not just free solo it? I guess the B/Y wasn't scary enough for the Brits. |
By Ken Trout Jul 14, 2008
| On the level of commitment, Ron Kauk says: "To really know that there's no other place that you'd rather be; than right there, right then, that moment." That's goin' on my rack.
The title states audacity, but not really. Strong beyond comprehension and gifted at gear-placing. |
By Eric Rhicard Jul 15, 2008
| Pretty cool stuff whatever they did to get themselves mentally fit to do what they did. |
|
|