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827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 
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Colorado Welcome Party T 
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Kachina Wings T 
Leisure Climb T 
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Moveable Feast T 
Musical Partners T 
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Colorado Welcome Party 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Seth Shaw and Tim Wagner
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: slevin on Feb 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Colorado Welcome Party climbs the right margin of the clean, sweeping wall left of and just beyond the Cruise Gully rappels (i.e. left of Leisure Climb, etc.).

Early morning and mid-to-late afternoon shade. Plan on 4-6 hours round-trip from the rim. Fixed and bombproof belay (i.e. rappel) anchors are not in place.

Descend the Cruise Gully to immediately past the second rappel. Third class a short, grassy R-facing corner to a ledge system below three obvious crack lines (the Leisure Climb/Mid-Summer's Night Dream/Musical Partners cluster), then head up and left (short stretch of 5th class) to a higher ledge. Belay left along this before obvious boulders, and just below some bolts.

P1. Scratch past 2 bolts (5.11-) to a right-facing corner (runout but moderate climbing in corner), clip a third bolt and a fixed head, and mantle into the land of no-return. Now slither across the wall right, past 2 more bolts and an ambiguous crux section of minimalist edging. Prance straight up and belay at a small stance, with gear for anchors. Long runners are necessary to reduce rope drag on this weaving pitch. This is classic and challenging face climbing.

P2. Climb to a small overlap (fixed pin, 5.10+/5.11-), then up and left. Continue up (avoid the tendency to climb off right) to belay at a stance with a bolt. This is nice climbing and a long pitch. Mild fuzziness.

P3. Climb runout 5.10, then blast through two peg bands (more scary 5.10) to a small hanging stance with slightly funky gear anchor. This is a classic pitch of pure, unadulterated Black Canyon climbing.

P4. Punch up a section of strenuous, runout 5.10 through an overlap and into some hanging corners. Now finesse your way through the roof above (5.11 but contrived and kind of a pile) or step right near a big hanging block, then back up and left.

P5. Exit to the terrace, then walk and scramble off left.


Double set wires (include RPs) to #2.5 Friend, one #3 Friend, TCUs. Some people have suggested double rope technique for the first pitch, but long slings reduce rope drag just fine. There is some runout climbing on just about every pitch, and at least one belay anchor that requires some focus to optimize.

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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 30, 2007

Wow! Sustained route for sure...time to head back and red point it. (I will shoot myself for using that phrase when talking about the Black)!
jay brown
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Jun 11, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Yup, after bolt you head into that little corner. Gear isn't great, but you can trickle a few shitty pieces in. Definitely keeps you thinking the whole way. And, the fixed head before the .10 mantle is gone.
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 22, 2010

I didn't even do a mantle, it is an easy high step onto the ledge!
By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 18, 2011

The peg pitch isn't 200', it's like 50'.
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