Mountain Project: Climbing Grand Junction area

The Monument is a fine area of desert climbing in Colorado. Just south of Grand Junction and Fruita, it offers many types of climbing found in Utah such as towers, splitter cracks, and soft Wingate & Entrada sandstone. The main attractions here are Independence Monument, a 400 foot tower; Sentinel Spire; and some other spires and pedestals. Some nice one-pitch routes line the canyon walls on the approach to Independence Monument. Look for many other multi-pitch routes around the entire park.

The best climbing season is fall through spring, as summers are generally too hot. Winters can be quite cold, but on a sunny day, you and the rock will warm up--Fruita is at a lower elevation than most of Colorado at about 4,500 feet, so it stays warmer because of that, too.

Camping is available along the Rim Rock drive within the park, but it is $10/night/site and includes a picnic table, grill, plus water and showers are available. You may also camp just South of Fruita on CO Hwy 340 at the State Park area, which is also $10/night. If you want to go cheap, turn West at the Horsetooth Public Lands sign about a half mile South of I-70 and follow this road until it turns into BLM property. It's not the nicest area, but it's free.

Another camping option is east of the park boundary in Rattlesnake Canyon or Black Ridge. From the Fruita entrance, go about 7 miles past the visitor center and take a right (east) at a Y in the road. Once you're outside of the park, camping is wide open and free.

Getting There

To get to Fruita, take I-70 toward Grand Junction--Fruita is about 9mi. West of GJ. Exit I-70 South onto CO Hwy 340 and take this to the appropriate entrance depending on what rock you plan to climb.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colorado National Monument:

Otto's Route 5.8+ Trad, Chipped, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Independence Monument

Route 4 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Monument Canyon

Steppin' On it 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Liberty Cap

Route 2 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Monument Canyon

100' Hands 5.10a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Tiara Rado

Fast Draw 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III Sentinel Spire

Relics 5.10 C2 Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 430 feet, Grade III Grand View Spire

Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral 5.10+ Trad, 3 pitches, 260 feet, Grade III Monument Canyon

Long Dong Wall (aka Bell Tower) 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches Kissing Couple area : Kissing Couple

Desert Solitaire 5.11a C1 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Monument Canyon

Cool Breeze 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Liberty Cap

Sundial Dihedral 5.11b C1 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Independence Monument

Soren Roof 5.11+ Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Tiara Rado

Ribbed Buttress 5.11+ C1 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Fruita Canyon

Never Cry Wolf 5.11c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Liberty Cap

Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral 5.12- Trad, 2 pitches Monument Canyon

Flapper 5.12- Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Tiara Rado

Osiris 5.12a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Liberty Cap

Medicine Man 5.12b Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III Sentinel Spire

Get A Life 5.12 Trad, 5 pitches, 460 feet, Grade III Monument Canyon

Comments on Colorado National Monument

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By Lee Dyer
Mar 14, 2002

The monument offers some of the best attributes of climbing: adventure, questionable rock, cracks, occasional sections of solid rock, solitude (unless you climb Otto's Route), super views, and towers, towers, towers....

By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Mar 17, 2003

Is climbing available here anytime of the year or are there times it's too wet? (Basically, I want to go in a week and was determining if it was worth it) thanks....

By Tom Dansby
Jul 27, 2003

CMN for novices

The 1st area described above has some good areas for novice climbers. About 30 yards after leaving the fence on the right side of the trail, there are 3 top rope areas. Just west of these is an outcropping with Arches-like sandstone that might make a decent beginner's climb. 50 yards beyond this is the Elephant Head Rock with several possible TR or trad climbs. Another 30-50 yards up the trail takes you to the prominent, right-facing dihedral, bolted area described elsewhere on this site.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Jul 20, 2006

So much climbing! Every cliff band or tower you scout out and look has anchors. So many quality climbs. Hot during the summer but a good temp during the winter. You never see anyone when you climb anything but Lower Monument Slabs and Otto's Route.

By Buck Dooley
Sep 5, 2008

When you are exiting through the Fuiduh Ranger's Station, there is a route visible from Balanced Rock on the west side of the canyon. There is a ten or twelve foot arch at the top with some juniper growing in it... anyone have any information for it? I looked in the Fruita Canyon section, but could find no mention of this route.

Many thanks in advance.

By Airbiscuit
Sep 13, 2008

You're probably talking about "Midnight Rider". 2 pitches. Bring your cowboy boots and your big guns.

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Jun 9, 2009

Grand Junction is Awesome!!!!
45 minutes from rifle gap, about an hr.+ from Moab, 20 minutes from Unaweep canyon, the metamorphic boulders up by liberty cap. what more could you want?

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Colorado National Monument

Description

Getting There

The Classics