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Colorado Alpine Rock Conditions Summer 2014
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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
May 21, 2014
Manning face

Diamond
Diamond


Howdy, as we approach alpine rock season up in RMNP (and, to be fair, a few other areas), I thought it would be helpful to have a conditions thread similar to the Ice/Snow climbing threads.

Use this thread to post up approach conditions, route conditions, and all the various other miscellaneous details (like, are the bivy caves still full of snow) that you've encountered up in the alpine.

RMNP Live Web Cams


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By GLD
May 21, 2014

That picture can't be current...did you just grab an old one?


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By bmagee13
May 21, 2014

GLD wrote:
That picture can't be current...did you just grab an old one?


That looks like a painting.


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By George Bell
From Boulder, CO
May 21, 2014
Hip trouble ...

It's actually the painted backdrop of a diorama at the Museum of Nature and Science in Denver. So it shows current conditions, maybe 1970!

Photo

It is cool that this thread was started by Peyton Manning!!


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
May 21, 2014
Manning face

George Bell wrote:
It's actually the painted backdrop of a diorama at the Museum of Nature and Science in Denver. So it shows current conditions, maybe 1970! Photo It is cool that this thread was started by Peyton Manning!!


It's one of my favorite paintings of the diamond, I tried to snag a picture from the Long's Peak webcam, but there was zero visibility.


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
May 21, 2014
Manning face

George Bell wrote:
It is cool that this thread was started by Peyton Manning!!


My profile picture is less about Peyton Manning, than the more significant ideas of regret and frustration that his smirk therein signifies.


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By BillyGoatSam
From Colorado Springs
Jun 21, 2014

Does anyone have info on the trail conditions in RMNP? Approaches to Petite, Sharkstooth, Diamond, Mt Evans (the black wall)?


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By Chris Dickson
From Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 21, 2014
Scarface, Indian Creek.

Just climbed Le Petit yesterday. I think this has been said in the RMNP Conditions topic, but its pretty much dry all the way to the Loch. Then, you start to hit some snow. If you get after it early enough, it is usually pretty firm from the night before, however hiking out at the end of the of the day was silly sloppy postholing. There's a lot of snow from the Loch up to Sky Pond, but then it is clear from Sky Pond to the base of the Petit (with maybe a little bit of snow to get to the start of the South Face). We did the Southwest Corner and it was awesome! I'd say if you time it right and don't mind getting your feet a little wet, the alpine season in the Park is slowly starting!


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By Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Jun 21, 2014

Anyone know how Spearhead looks about now?


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By VARMENT
From Boulder, Colorado
Jun 21, 2014
base of castelton

Anyone know if the black wall at mt. evans is wet?


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Jun 22, 2014
Manning face

Eliot Augusto wrote:
Anyone know how Spearhead looks about now?



I was up there for the last two days.

Spearhead approach, 6/20/2014.
Spearhead approach, 6/20/2014.


Here's the snowfield leading up to Syke's. it extended all the way down to the bivy caves. However the path leading up from the bivy area to the North ridge of Spearhead was more or less snow free.

But, most importantly....


Spearhead descent.
Spearhead descent.



The descent was snow free!

Bring a trekking pole or an ultra light ice axe and you should be good to go for anything you want to do in the area.


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By Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2014

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:
Bring a trekking pole or an ultra light ice axe and you should be good to go for anything you want to do in the area.


Thanks Peyton, that's some stellar news! Do you think a walking stick would suffice?


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By WyomingSheepRanch
From Aspen, Colorado
Jun 22, 2014

Current conditions of the Petit and Shark's tooth are great! A little snow getting to the base of each but it actually helps with the talus approach.

The Petit Grepon.
The Petit Grepon.


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By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2014
yep

I'm also interested in the black wall @ mt. evans if anyone has a condition info.


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Jun 22, 2014
Manning face

Eliot Augusto wrote:
Thanks Peyton, that's some stellar news! Do you think a walking stick would suffice?


Absolutely. Or Wes Welker, he's short enough to be used in place of an ice axe in most situations


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By Matthew Ryan Jones
From Minturn, CO
Jun 25, 2014

Anybody have any info on the creston's? I was looking to get out there in about 3 weeks. Wondering if it's worth a trip yet, or if I should wait for a while longer?


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By Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Jun 25, 2014
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, below Camp Schurman.

Flying Buttress on Meeker was bone dry on Saturday. Plunging steps on the descent up high still looked a little sketchy so we down-climbed next to the snow for most of the way and plunged the lower section where it was lower angle and the snow was softer.


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By kirkadirka
From Boulder
Jun 25, 2014
turkey rocks

Blitzen ridge was mostly dry as of Sunday. Still lots of snow up top.

Looking down lower portion of Blitzen Ridge.
Looking down lower portion of Blitzen Ridge.


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By Wally
From Denver
Jun 26, 2014

How about Halletts. How is the approach? Boots and an ice axe? Or just tennis shoes?

Thanks. Wally


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By Jonathan Stickel
From Golden, CO
Jun 30, 2014
Trad climbing at Shelf

Climbed Hallett on Sunday. Just a bit of snow to cross. I could kick steps with high-top approach shoes and used poles for balance, but I wouldn't recommend low-top sneakers. Second Buttress was dry and great climbing.


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By Kristian Starheim
From Boston, MA
Jul 1, 2014

Any one know how the conditions are on Kieners Route? We are going to Boulder for 2 weeks from the 8th to the 24th, and I wanted to try Kieners in our second week.


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Jul 1, 2014
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

kirkadirka wrote:
Blitzen ridge was mostly dry as of Sunday. Still lots of snow up top.


With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?


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By Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Jul 1, 2014
Dreamweaver

Kristian Starheim wrote:
Any one know how the conditions are on Kieners Route? We are going to Boulder for 2 weeks from the 8th to the 24th, and I wanted to try Kieners in our second week.


Climbed it on Friday (6/27). Snow is almost entirely avoidable on Broadway except for the short down climb. The chimneys were pretty wet and muddy but will probably be quite a bit drier a week from now. Uppers still had a bit of snow but it was very soft by 10 am but entirely avoidable by scrambling rock on climbers right. Diamond step around is dry.


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By GLD
Jul 2, 2014

Andy Hansen wrote:
With the bridge out, how did you approach to Blitzen?

I crossed logs about 20 m downstream using poles when I did NE couloir on Sunday. Not that sketchy, but there are also shallow spots I would have been comfortable wading. I'm curious about his approach though as well as I am interested in approaching from the AVC, descending Donner or glissade the bowl between chiquita and ypsilon, climb Blitzen, and hike back to road.


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By Eliot Augusto
From Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2014

Mt. Neva and Jasper are good conditions. Some snow for the last hundred+ feet of the approach to the climbs. You will have to descend the long way via Neva North Ridge or the east shoulder of Jasper.


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By Sagar Gondalia
From Golden
Jul 8, 2014
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, below Camp Schurman.

As of 07/04/2014, the spiral route up Notchtop was completely dry.


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