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Climb an initial section of wide crack from #3 to #4 Camalot in size. Step left when possible to climb an easy crack in the corner underneath the roof. At the roof, go right, pulling through the first roof via a layback and then pulling through a second roof just above. Finish with good jams before a "surprise" wide section at the top. If you want to protect the wide section at the top, bring a big piece (#6 Camalot ?) or run it out until you can reach around left to place a piece in the left crack before manteling to the anchors. A good, varied climb, especially if you don't mind doing a little bit of wide climbing.
To the right of Variety Pack, Unnamed 5.10+, and Unnamed 5.10 is this obvious left-leaning wide crack with two roofs above. Starts in the crack on the face with huecos to the right of a right-facing corner system. Plaque at the base.
Double set of cams from .5 Camalot to #4 Camalot with maybe an extra in the #3 and #4 size.
|By Toby Tittle|
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Bring the #6 Camalot.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Jun 26, 2013
Didn't find the 6 necessary...actually only took a 4.5 and placed at the first roof.. You can escape left at the top and avoid the OW and have a fun finger crack to hand jam...REALLY ENJOYED THIS ROUTE!!!!! solid 11
|By Doug Fulford|
6 days ago
Not sure you'll get off this with a 60m rope. 110'?