College Rock Chimney Buttress  5.6

352 page views Good page?

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  who knows? Submitted By:  Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

On the variably overhanging buttress, just outside the chimney, climb up the buttress on juggy holds, and a prominent ledge about 1/3rd of the way up, until you get to the awkward mantel move just under the incut ledge below the top. Make the blind reach to the last jug and the top. You can perform a contrived heel-hook move to top out. Recently (week of 8/02/07) a loose block broke/fell off, making the move off the prominent ledge noticably harder, replacing a full, two-hand jug with a smaller, single-hand, sloping jug.

Location 

A little less than halfway down the crag southward (just after the 5.11 roof face), you'll the first prominent right-facing buttress. behind this buttress is the College Rock Chimney route AKA "Spring Vacation", 5.0.

Protection 

Some people will climb this from the Send Money anchor, though this invites a backward swing into the Send Money face, and requires transferring from the buttress to the face with a hand traverse to the "Send Money" anchor for lowering.

If your'e more risk averse than that, set a TR with gear in cracks within the chimney fissure, and one small tree above the face.