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 ADVANCED
Gran Boveda Right
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Coliseum S 
El Sepes S 
L'any que ve Tambe S 

Coliseum 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,308
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 14, 2009

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Beginning the looong journey.

Description 

Coliseum is the central line of the Gran Boveda, splitting the massive cave with 40 meters of relentless jugs & tufas. The line is consistently steep, but a cornucopia of great holds provides passage at a (relatively) modest grade. The line follows a vague overhanging dihedral, & an intermittent finger crack in the back provides a few key holds, though most of the climbing is on good pockets & fins. There isn't really a distinct crux, though there is a long dash between rests at around 2/3's height that is more likely to spoil your redpoint than any other section.

Begin atop a pair of large stalagmites. Stem onto the wall & head up a good tufa to an alcove. Move left & up passing many good rests, to the first of several horizontal bulges. Over this to another alcove, another bulge, & more tufa goodness. Eventually the tufas & pockets disappear. Furious liebacking leads to a tiered ledge of slopey edges. Move up & left to sinker, glue-reinforced pockets. Make a big move over the final bulge to a cool thread & a good shake. One last hard bit gains the slab.

This route stays dry when pretty much everything else is wet.

Location 

At the very top/center of the Gran Boveda cave, climbing the intermittent crack in the overhanging corner. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection 

Many, many bolts to 2BA. Unless you have an 80m rope, a double or triple lower will be required.
There are no intermediate anchors, but there are some fixed biners on several bolts.


Photos of Coliseum Slideshow Add Photo
Are we there yet??  30m up and the anchor is nowhere in sight.
Are we there yet?? 30m up and the anchor is nowhe...
"Coliseum" follows the intermittent dihedral at center, starting abit to the right and finishing a bit to the left.
"Coliseum" follows the intermittent dihe...
Entering the 100-feet-long steep section
Entering the 100-feet-long steep section

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