This awesome pitch is located in the gorgeous inset, left of Inside Straight and right of Virgin Spring. It's a brilliant, thin splitter that passes an overhang and the route continues up to the Library Ledge anchors (Melvin's). Bernard Gillett's book gives this pitch an "R" rating, which may be fitting, all the gear is small, the rock not so-travelled, and the crack a little weedy. But after watching J-dog piss on it, it looked pretty well protected. Nontheless, this pitch is a spectacular, spicy, exercise in slabbing,thin crack and rp-ing. Three stars may be a bit generous but it's sooo good and with traffic will clean up quickly. Enjoy!
Lots of small stuff. RPs and TCUs, [bring a full rack for up top]. Addendum: tricams may be useful.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Mar 7, 2008
Tri-cams can be useful at the start. The gear gets better as you get higher. This is an awesome pitch marred only by a lack of traffic. Winter or spring are perhaps the best seasons for it since the plants growing from the thin crack aren't in "bloom".
From: Ann Arbor, MI
Jun 27, 2010
1 or 2 stars out of 4, 11c. I didn't add these to the official tally, as this is my "top rope opinion."
The climbing movements were enjoyable, and you can rig a TR using a big boulder block next to library ledge. With this anchor you can belay next to the base of Inside Straight with a 60m rope if the climber does 10 - 15 feet of low 5th class climbing to get the rope within reach. Otherwise set a TR anchor lower than library ledge, or belay from the proper start of the climb. You can descend from the TR anchor via a 5.6 traverse/downclimb to the bolted belay on Bellyflop.
At the crux and the hang at the roof (5.10) there is a lot of lichen, dirt, friable holds, and grass in the crack. Not a good onsight lead for the marginal 11+ trad leader. There might be better locks and pro hidden in the crack under the grass. I agree with the guidebooks that it deserves an "R" rating on the pro and that it is not a four-star climbing experience, at least in its current condition.
Worth consideration of TRing if you're already in the area, have the time at the end of the day, and like Lumpy "cracks".