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Cole Essence takes the aesthetic hanging dihedral just right of Triassic Sands and just left of the Archaeopteryx arete. It is a left-facing, tiger-striped corner with no apparent gear. There is gear, but be willing to do crux climbing above it.
Begin by doing a short pitch up to a big ledge. Take the first pitch of Triassic (5.7), or take cracks on the face just right. From an optional belay on this ledge (best done as one pitch if you can solo or backclean the start), launch up the corner past a few good stances and good gear placements to a cruxy section of gaston palm-smearing on a weird rib of rock on the left wall. If all goes well you'll end up in a chimney position, back to the corner, with a no-hands rest. Continue chimneying up to a timely overhead TCU placement, and pull into a lieback. Climb as high up into the corner as possible (until the holds disappear), and stab the right foot out to a fortuitous notch on the righthand arete. Swing out of the corner and around the arete to clip an anchor, recently upgraded by the ASCA. With a 70m you can lower off all the way to the ground.
Gear to a #1 Camalot. Include small TCUs.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
really fun- full value stuff. proud lead for josh!
May 15, 2007
probably not so proud for josh. considering the crazy stuff that guys done, i would speculate this route was a walk in the park. and this route is closer to g-rated than pg.