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Cold War 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 7,926
Submitted By: Jay Knower on May 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jay Knower sticks crux number two (out of five) on...

Description 

Cold War is the line of strength up the steep wall on the right side of Waimea. Combining the cruxes of Barracuda (13d), Suburban (13a), and Urban Surfer (13d), Cold War has become well-known for the pump it generates.

Start just right of Suburban and climb through a roof to the "Slam Dunk Move," a big slap around a bulge to a hidden jug. Next head into the Barracuda Corner, a feature which is amazing in its stark blankness. A move to a crimp in the middle of the corner is the technical crux of the route.

At the top of the corner, swing left into the Suburban kneebar, rest, and then fire the Suburban crux. Recover as best you can in the Urban kneebar. Finally, climb the long upper part of Urban Surfer to the chains. The moves through this section become progressively easier as you climb, but the pump makes the final V0 moves to the jug feel quite a bit harder.

After about eighty moves, four cruxes, four kneebars, and 12 bolts of climbing, clip the chains and lower off. Then shirk all belay duty and take a nap in the sun.


Protection 

12 bolts. Right kneepad.


Photos of Cold War Slideshow Add Photo
The "Administrator" on the Suburban part of Cold War.
The "Administrator" on the Suburban part...
The "Administrator" on the Barracuda corner on Cold War
The "Administrator" on the Barracuda cor...
A sequence of James Otey in the Barracuda corner...
A sequence of James Otey in the Barracuda corner.....
Jay Knower...Rose on belay....
Jay Knower...Rose on belay....

Comments on Cold War Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 7, 2007

Congrats on the send Jay!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 5, 2012

James Otey styling the Barracuda corner while putting in a try on Cold War... great beta! i know i will be studying it...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 21, 2013

wider shot of a cold war attempt by otey