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Cold Turkey 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,559
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Right before crux sequence

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First lead in a 32 degree downpour of sleet! Knowing Chris one would also assume he did it in bare feet!

This line ascends the cliff from the lowest point of the meadows, down in the pit between the slabs.
Interesting moves that might be hard for the grade start you out. Crimps and palming can be used in conjunction on the starting section, keep an open mind and this will go easier. Then you get up to the slab above and enjoy the best climbing in all of the Meadows Area.

Location 

Start from the pit right of Lies and Propaganda.

Protection 

7 Bolts to Anchors


Photos of Cold Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
View from the anchors.  Realized when I got to the...
View from the anchors. Realized when I got to the...
Noah Leading the bottom section
Noah Leading the bottom section

Comments on Cold Turkey Add Comment
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 16, 2007

fun route... the slab above is bolted in spicy fasion (which is nice but just be ready if you are not happy to use your feet)...
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Oct 28, 2007

i really like this route the first vert face is fun and gaining the slab was a little intimidating but fun.....i cant wait to get back on and do it clean
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 15, 2008

The combination of the balancey lower crux and the upper slab make for a very interesting route! Real good.
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I agree it is like two completely different routes in one. I also thought the top slab portion is very runout and pretty scary if you aren't totally into slab. However, it was a fun climb and I'd do it again. The bottom section was a really fun puzzle to figure out.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jun 22, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very fun :]
By SmithBro
From: North Wilmot, New Hampshire
Mar 10, 2011

I did NOT do this barefoot, nor did I think it was run out at the top, until I pulled onto the slab and faced 30ft. of sleet-covered edges guarding the FA. Slow tense climbing, interspersed with wiping the accumulating sleet off the holds with wooden fingers, brought hard-fought success. Much thanks goes to Dr.Paul, who belayed, prodded, and cajoled me to the top while our wives stayed warm and dry in the van. This is what we do for fun? Perhaps not, but memorable no doubt.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 4, 2012

Hang dogged this one while figuring out the beta. Fun crux, clean fall. I can't wait to try for the redpoint on this.
Also, totally sketchy getting on top of the lip (in an awesome way)!
The top did feel a bit run out, but after climbing the bottom, it didn't bother me.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 9, 2012

Returned for the redpoint... much easier with the right beta! One of my favorite 10's at Rumney so far! (The other being Underdog, and yes, I realize there are better 10's there... I haven't climbed many yet is all)
By S. Neoh
May 9, 2012

I had the good fortune of climbing with Chris for one day last summer. It was a great time until I ripped a flapper on Cavatappi. Anyway, he recounted the FA of this route. We had a good laugh while enjoying the sunny, warm weather.
Matt, congrats. Have your sight set on Expresso, Waimea, and Peer Pressure now.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
May 3, 2013

Really fun slab climbing at the top, but damn this one sure felt tough for the grade below the lip on the face. I made it through but damn.....i knew I must be missing something. Anyone know the route really well? I'd love some beta.