Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 feet. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.
Rappel 140 feet or rope off toward the Rincon.
Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.
Standard Eldo with mid-size RP and #3.5 and #4 Friend.
I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear.
Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Mar 7, 2010 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a R
Jay's got a good point, but I say sling it anyway, and back it up with his suggestion. Who knows--it just might hold. There are ways to avoid putting all your weight on the horn in question while moving through that section.
By 303scott Jan 28, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.