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This thrilling route is located on the southern end of LDE. Like almost every LDE climb, it was established on lead drilling bolts from hook placements when necessary. The climb ascends two pitches of great rock and has a terrific summit. The first pitch looks simple but has surprisingly tricky moves and gear. The second pitch is beautiful and challenging; it is one of the best pitches I've done in Queen Creek.
Pitch 1: From the comfortable ledge at the start of the climb, head up to gain a crack. Marcy did the FA by starting on the right side of the wall from the belay stance. Climb the crack to its end, pass through a short crux section, and continue to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.8, 60')
Pitch 2: Wander up the left side of the steep face protected by small gear and three bolts. Thoughtful, sustained movement, multiple cruxes, and tricky but solid gear make this a classic, outstanding pitch!! A good hint to keep in mind is that the climb briefly heads up and right toward the center of the face after the second bolt (see topo). (5.11-, 80')
To get to the summit, step left and pull a few easy moves to the top (15'). A belay anchor is on the actual summit, a rap anchor will be on your right just before the summit.
Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60m rope. The first rappel goes from the top of the tower to the top of the first pitch. From here one more rappel takes you to the ground.
From the main trail leading to the Entrance tower, head right (south) toward the Coop. Just before the Coop turn right, head downhill for about 50', then turn left and continue south on a well-marked trail toward the climb. A hand line is present to help negotiate a short but nasty gully leading to a spacious belay at the bottom of the climb.
See the overview photo to identify the climb.
Stoppers, doubles <1", singles 1-2", two #2 camalots, one #3 camalot.
Marcy on the FA (pitch 1)
Geir on the FA (pitch 2)
Marcy following Geir's FA of pitch 2
Laurel and Doug on Cold Rush
Arjun leads pitch one of Cold Rush
Geir flies up pitch two as the sun begins to set o...
'Canada' Eric Ruljancich on lead; Cold r...
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 28, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Outstanding ground up FA of pitch 2 by Geir. Technical, sustained climbing; very impressive!
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 29, 2009
Also established ground up by Marcy on pitch 1! Without bolts, as usual! :)
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Pitch one seemed 5.8 or 5.8+ because of those horizontal placements (gotta get used to that), I followed pitch 2-David Sampson did a great redpoint of this SUSTAINED, hard pitch. It is mixed gear and bolts, and it seemed 5.11.
Jan 20, 2010
It is a good first pitch and you can avoid the tricky gear placement by just climbing through..the holds are good and would be better if not so cold.
Kudos to Doug on a great lead on second pitch...tricky here for sure
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 27, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Definitely one of the most fun climbs down here! Love that you'll are doing the FA's ground up. Sweet yo!
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
The second pitch is quite sustained and technical, and a whole lot of fun. This is a very impressive ground up accent. I set off on this thing with a double rack and no beta at all and that was hard enough. Nice work.
Apr 27, 2010
Another stellar climb!
First pitch is quite fun and the second is even better.
Good do ground up!!
Whether it's 11a or 11b really depends on how you climb it. Either way it's a must do.