Cold Rush  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Geir, Marcy, and Doso, 12/09 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Geir on Dec 28, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Cold Rush Topo

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Description 

This thrilling route is located on the southern end of LDE. Like almost every LDE climb, it was established on lead drilling bolts from hook placements when necessary. The climb ascends two pitches of great rock and has a terrific summit. The first pitch looks simple but has surprisingly tricky moves and gear. The second pitch is beautiful and challenging; it is one of the best pitches I've done in Queen Creek.

Pitch 1: From the comfortable ledge at the start of the climb, head up to gain a crack. Marcy did the FA by starting on the right side of the wall from the belay stance. Climb the crack to its end, pass through a short crux section, and continue to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. (5.8, 60')

Pitch 2: Wander up the left side of the steep face protected by small gear and three bolts. Thoughtful, sustained movement, multiple cruxes, and tricky but solid gear make this a classic, outstanding pitch!! A good hint to keep in mind is that the climb briefly heads up and right toward the center of the face after the second bolt (see topo). (5.11-, 80')

To get to the summit, step left and pull a few easy moves to the top (15'). A belay anchor is on the actual summit, a rap anchor will be on your right just before the summit.

Descent: You can rap the route with a single 60m rope. The first rappel goes from the top of the tower to the top of the first pitch. From here one more rappel takes you to the ground.

Location 

From the main trail leading to the Entrance tower, head right (south) toward the Coop. Just before the Coop turn right, head downhill for about 50', then turn left and continue south on a well-marked trail toward the climb. A hand line is present to help negotiate a short but nasty gully leading to a spacious belay at the bottom of the climb.

See the overview photo to identify the climb.

Protection 

Stoppers, doubles <1", singles 1-2", two #2 camalots, one #3 camalot.

Photos of Cold Rush Slideshow

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Marcy on the FA (pitch 1)	Geir on the FA (pitch 2)	Marcy following Geir's FA of pitch 2
Laurel and Doug on Cold Rush	Arjun leads pitch one of Cold Rush	Geir flies up pitch two as the sun begins to set o...
'Canada' Eric Ruljancich on lead; Cold r...