|Jet Stream Wall
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 480'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Unknown.|
FFA: Joshua Janes & David Allfrey - Spring, 2013
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,025|
|Submitted By: ||Josh Janes on May 1, 2013|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy Darren in Vegas.
Cold Front is a great new line (2-3 stars) that tackles the natural weakness - the attractive corner system - that divides the Jet Stream Wall in half (with Jet Stream and Atmospheres to the left and Drifting to the right). There are two amazing 5.10+/5.11- corner pitches that are linked together by a short 5.12 pitch that can easily be aided yielding a fun outing at an easier grade, but if you're up for the challenge the boulder problem crux is excellent as well. The only detractors are a short, dirty pitch off the ground and a bit of hollow rock on one section up higher. Props to the person(s) who envisioned this route - we just did the easy part which was to free climb it.
Begin off the large, flat polished rock terrace at the base of the center of the wall near a large pine tree.
P1: The "Flowers" Pitch. Climb up a lichen-covered slab to a short finger crack just right of the gully system beneath the central corner. From the finger crack, bushwhack leftwards across the top of the gully to a belay out left at a good stance. Bushy, but pleasingly fragrant. 5.8, 80'.
P2: Climb the corner. An awkward but fun start leads to exceptional climbing punctuated with great rests. Belay at a cramped stance below the steeper wall above. 5.10, 120'.
P3: The boulder problem crux, follow face holds up a steepening wall to a good rest beneath a roof. Move left to underclings, then pull up over the roof and step around the corner to the left and belay on a foot ledge (or link into the next pitch). The crux is V4 and this pitch is well-protected. 5.12b, 50'.
P4: Climb up a series of hollow flakes, eventually working left to a semi-hanging belay beneath the amazing corner. Extend the belay to a stance 10' below this anchor for maximum comfort. 5.9, 90'.
P5: This is the glory pitch - a magnificent black varnished corner providing several technical cruxes and thought-provoking but good gear. Climb through the first crux immediately above the belay, and continue up the corner. Higher there is a well-protected, tricky corner switch to the right, then some great, exposed moves up the arete separating the corners lead to yet another pretty corner. This is followed upwards past a final tricky section that employs a flake on the right face. Continue a little higher to a ledge system at the top of the wall. 5.11a, 140'.
Descent options: Top out and rappel Jet Stream with a single 70, traverse over to Drifting and rappel that with a single 70, or walk off via the Brownstone Wall descent. The easiest way might be to traverse straight left to the final anchor of Atmospheres, then make a short diagonal rap hard left to join up with the Jet Stream rap route.
Double set from 0.3 to #2 Camalots. Singles of smaller TCU's and a set of wires.
|By Rob Fielding|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 2, 2013
Sounds like a good line, lets see some pics!
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 14, 2013
Excellent looking line guys!
May 28, 2013
This is a fun route, the pitches are really great.
| || |Cold Front
Submitted By: hoipolloi on May 28, 2013