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 ADVANCED
Fall Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Crack T 
Clam Shell TR 
Cold Finger S 
Colonial Rule T 
Drop Zone S,TR 
E.O. Friction S 
E.O. Lieback T 
Easy Overhang Traverse T 
Fall Wall (*the route) T,S 
Fear and Loathing T 
Guilty Fingers S,TR 
Gunga Din S 
Hole T 
Mickey Mantle S 
Neon Madman T 
Spider God T,S 
Upper Fall Wall Route T 

Cold Finger 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,958
Submitted By: Scott Hansen on Jul 22, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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Eric shakes it out on Cold Finger.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good solid slab route. It might seem stiff if your not accustom to slabs. This climb makes a good start to the trad route, Hole.

Protection 

5 or 6 (originally 4) quickdraws will get you to the two bolt anchor.


Photos of Cold Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Stef taking the sharp end on this classic slab.
Stef taking the sharp end on this classic slab.
The route.
The route.
Wall shot showing the belay at the top of the pitch (if you want to continue).
Wall shot showing the belay at the top of the pitc...
Mike Auldridge warming up his fingers on Cold Finger.
Mike Auldridge warming up his fingers on Cold Fing...
Looking down on Cold Finger.
Looking down on Cold Finger.
Tristan on Cold Finger.
Tristan on Cold Finger.
Tristan bundled up for Cold finger.
Tristan bundled up for Cold finger.
Looking for the next friction holds.
Looking for the next friction holds.

Comments on Cold Finger Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2013
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 14, 2003

This climb is steep, thin, and a bit runnout between bolts...but hey, that and the excellent friction is what made it so fun to lead!
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Jun 22, 2003

Fun climb and definitely a bit runout between bolts two and three. I believe there are only four bolts, then the anchor. Good climb to do then TR Drop Zone using the anchors above it. Enjoy.
By Chad Bowman
May 5, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This was my first outdoor lead and it was scary as all get out. I would definitely recommend it for a warm up to lead Drop Zone, or just to screw around with!
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2005

A fun route that will make you think because you actually have to climb a ways between bolts! Nicely sustained almost to the end.
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2006

Great climb and actually very well protected. There was one or two more bolts there than were listed in the Heel-Toe guidebook.

Getting to Fall Wall is a bit dicey though for a beginner area. There are a few bouldery 4th-5th class moves required that you don't typiclly rope up for.
By molony
Feb 25, 2008

Great intro to slab climbing. Well bolted, with a stellar view from the top.
By shane brenner
From: evansville,wy
Jul 1, 2010

Let's get even more ridiculous and just rate it a 5.2!!!! You people that rated these are idiots! Yhis is at least a 5.10. Try to be a little more realistic, eh?
By richard magill
Jul 2, 2010

Not that hard, 5.7 is about right... nice short route, though.
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Jul 2, 2010

You people that rated these are idiots! This is at least a 5.10.

Are you sure you weren't on Gunga Din or Drop Zone?

Cold Fingers is an excellent, short, moderate route, with perfect edges and 5.7 at max. It's only "run out" if you're expecting a bolt a body length.

We've taken many climbing family picnics there, and all of the kids ages 6-12 run laps on Cold Fingers with a TR. They'd rather climb it than EO friction.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 2, 2010

Well, I bobbled the top once, so it felt a lot more runout than it was. But it still felt like 5.7. I really think you were on a different route than Cold Fingers. Cold Fingers probably sees more sends than Edward's Crack, so its grade is just about as settled as it's gonna get.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

This was rated 5.7 in 1968 when I first climbed it...years later it still feels like...5.7! Possibly the most popular route in Vedauwoo?
By Rodger Raubach
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Does anyone else that's posting here remember the infamous "beat-on" placed by Clarence Serfoss to protect the initial step up onto the slab? It was there when I first climbed the route in 1968, and it was still there 4 years later. I'd be interested to know what ever became of it.
By Rodger Raubach
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

As originally done, there were only 4 bolts on the slab. It was a bit run out to the first one...maybe 15 feet.
By Arlo F Niederer
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Only four bolts.

The beat-on (copperhead) wasn't there when I first led this in 1974.

And yes, it's only 5.7. If you haven't climbed much slab and are used to sport areas (including Beehive), it will seem harder. But with a little more slab climbing the rating is accurate.

5.7 granite slab climbing - good feet but small hand holds compared to sport climbs. "Trust your feet!"
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

UK visitors be warned: this would get a technical grade of 5b at the Etive Slabs.