Stem between Inner Outlet and the rock behind you, follow the flake to the first bolt. For me the crux was moving past the first bolt, I found it impossible to get established to lie-back the flake to the right of the bolt with out first committing to the face to the left of the bolt. If you're tall you'll be able to stem between the features to get the lie-back. I had to make some very tricky moves, both delicate and powerful to get into the lie-back (5.9 imo if you're 5'8" or under). Keep heading up and follow the spaced out bolt line putting in a piece of gear here and there if needed. The climbing is significantly easier once higher up (5.7ish). There's a pretty cool buldge/flake that you mantle at about 3/4 of the way. 6 or so bolts and one piton( the route has been retrobolted, it use to only have 2 bolts and the pin, think about that each time you make a clip). Have fun!
15 feet left of Classic Crack. Route follows the flake to the first bolt, keep heading up from there, can do some stemming to get to the first bolt. Rappel Classic Crack, one 70m will get you down other wise 2 60s will be needed.
Standard Rack and 8 or so draws for the bolts. I recommend long trad draws to reduce rope drag.
This route is sandbagged at 5.7 imo (5.7 rating comes from Touch the Sky). moves going through first bolt are easily 5.9. i would agree that after that the route is 5.7.
By Brent Larsen From: Spearfish, SD Aug 13, 2013 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Not sandbagged in the least. It's easier than Classic Crack, easier than Over Exposure and probably a bit more difficult than Hrum Hroom but definitely easier than Waste Knot. I am glad the bolts are there, however, at least two bolts are close to features that do accept cams and nuts. Sweet flakes and jugs even though crimpers are there early on and are needed for many of the moves. Would be an excellent lead for someone who just crushed California Boys but doesn't have the trad gear placing skills to make themselves good to go on Classic Crack. Probably the best way to quickly get a top rope placed for Two Year Plan. Fun route! Get on it!
By Brent Kertzman From: Black Hills, SD Aug 14, 2013 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
We used to believe this route was 5.6 if the first section was stemmed across or 5.7 if climbed without stemming across. The route is way safer today since Bob Archbold gave permission for bolts to be added.
variation is what makes climbing fun and unique to the individual. i must not have the span to make this a 5.7. i face climbed to the left of the first bolt and then did a tricky traverse to the right into the flake. my partner had an easier time and stemmed the whole first section. the top is definitely easier 5.7 (5.6 in spots) and is super fun. i agree with brent l that this is probably the easiest/fastest way to get a TR on 2 year plan, or even classic crack, it can be TRed with a single 70m.
I didn't stem and thought the section above the first bolt was 5.8+. Kudos to the old schoolers climbing that with 2 bolts. I was thoroughly spooked until I got to the second (current) bolt. Take a .75 Camalot for the horizontal crack down low if you want piece of mind.
A 70 meter rope reaches the ground with just a few feet to spare.