Follow the left-curving cracks and flake, past a crux at the bottom, and into a short L-Facing corner to the chains. This is a pretty blatantly bolted crack, but I guess all the other climbs are fully bolted. Still fun!
There are supposedly 3 pitches total, as well as a slightly harder variation that moves right about 1/2way up. The description here is for P1.
Park on the South side of Hwy20, at the East end of "town".
Walk along hwy 20 for ~150yrds to a trail on the left, which leads to the wall in about 30 seconds.
The fourth-most route to the left. Begin just before the ground slopes up to your right. This is basically right where the trail from Hwy20 meets the road.
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun route. There is a 5.8 second pitch then a fun and tricky 11c third pitch which could use a little cleaning.
|By Michael Nash|
Sep 26, 2012
Really great climb. Bolted crack, with some real hero moves. Fun stuff.
Aug 16, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
The third pitch is now clean and worthwhile. If doing so link the first pitch with the short 5.8 pitch to avoid the hanging belay. To do this you will need ~20 draws or you can skip/back clean a few bolts.
|By Stamati Anagnostou|
Jan 20, 2014
Very fun route on trad! Protectable and good placements but I'd give it a PG13 rating. Fun placement in the pocket a few feet off the deck, which is also the first placement.
Single rack from thin fingers to #4 and stoppers if i remember correctly.