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Overview & Waterfall
Routes Sorted
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Awakening S 
Blaupunkt S 
Cold Ass Honkies S 
Dodgy Vixen, The S 
Hair Nation T 
Hysteria S 
Sportklettern S 
Totally High Maintenance S 
Variation to Hysteria S 

Cold Ass Honkies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel & Matt King
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: OAW on May 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Start off the berm just off the trail. The first bolt has to be stick clipped. There are no holds to climb into the first bolt from the ground. After clipping the first bolt, start just below the bolt with your feet on two good features. From there, follow incredible, grippy, patina features straight up past 6 bolts to a two bolt chain anchor just below an overhaning cap rock.

There is a new stick clip attached to the large pine tree on the downhill side. Please keep this in that area. Thanks!

Location 

This is on the left side of the Waterfall and Overlook areas, just eight feet to the left of the unnamed drilled piton route before you get to "The Matrix" (Marcus Garcia). Walk up the burm to the left of the trail to access both these routes.

Protection 

Quickdraws.


Comments on Cold Ass Honkies Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
May 27, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is pretty fun!
Good find, Matt!
By OAW
May 28, 2013

Thanks, sir! Nice send!
By Matt Pickren
Aug 20, 2013

Wasn't a fan of this route at first due to the contrived start of the climb. After climbing it 4 times, I like it. It is probably not harder than .11c, but do not expect a single move easier than 5.11c, very sustained and good climbing.

Also, I will be honest in saying I am all for 'enhancing' 1 or 2 holds to be able to climb this from the ground, it's not missing much. Thoughts? If you haven't climbed this route yet, I don't care what your thoughts are.
By Ben Kiessel
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I think in this case nothing would be taken away from future generations of climbers by bolting on a hold so it could be climbed from the ground. It's just a shitty sport route on chossy rock.
Plus it would be so much cooler from the ground!