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Colchuck Peak
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Colchuck Glacier 
North Buttress Couloir 

Colchuck Glacier 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a Easy Snow

   
Type:  Snow, Alpine, 3100', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a [details]
FA: Elvin and Norma Johnson and William and Kathy Long, August 1948
Season: April - June (glacier conditions can vary widely)
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Wesley Ashwood on Aug 2, 2010

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At the end of the moraine before Colchuck Glacier.

Description 

From the base of the glacier ascend easy snow on the left (east) lobe of the glacier past the base of Dragontail's Serpentine and Backbone Ridge. The glacier steepens just before the Dragontail-Colchuck Saddle with about 100 ft of 40 degree snow. Scramble 3rd class sandy steps to the summit plateau at about 8,500 ft. Continue west and north to the true summit (8,705 ft) which provides awesome views of Stuart and Dragontail.

3,100 feet, grade II is from Colchuck Lake. The route could easily be done from the trailhead in the day with a longer approach.

Location 

Start from the north shore of Colchuck lake about 5.5 miles from the Stuart Lake-Colchuck Lake Trailhead. Gain the crest of the lateral moraine as soon as possible to avoid some really loose scree and talus. Continue up to the base of the glacier.

Descend the route.

Protection 

Ice axe and crampons.


Photos of Colchuck Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
Great view of Stuart from the summit.
Great view of Stuart from the summit.
There are some nice rock routes up from the lake as well.  5.8 I believe.
There are some nice rock routes up from the lake a...
Lots of bugs down by Colchuck lake!
Lots of bugs down by Colchuck lake!
Looking down Colchuck Glacier to Colchuck Lake
Looking down Colchuck Glacier to Colchuck Lake
Footprints in snow leading to summit of Colchuck
Footprints in snow leading to summit of Colchuck

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