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From the base of the glacier ascend easy snow on the left (east) lobe of the glacier past the base of Dragontail's Serpentine and Backbone Ridge. The glacier steepens just before the Dragontail-Colchuck Saddle with about 100 ft of 40 degree snow. Scramble 3rd class sandy steps to the summit plateau at about 8,500 ft. Continue west and north to the true summit (8,705 ft) which provides awesome views of Stuart and Dragontail.
Start from the north shore of Colchuck lake about 5.5 miles from the Stuart Lake-Colchuck Lake Trailhead. Gain the crest of the lateral moraine as soon as possible to avoid some really loose scree and talus. Continue up to the base of the glacier.
Ice axe and crampons.