Colchuck Balanced Rock 

This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.

But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.

Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.

Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.