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Colchuck Balanced Rock

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Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

Colchuck Balanced Rock 


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Page Views: 30,588
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Jon Nelson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010

Description 

This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.


Getting There 

From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.


11 Total Routes


['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',3],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
Leche La Vaca   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Tempest   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2     Trad, Aid, 10 pitches   
The Scoop   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
West Face   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 9 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
This is looking up at the long hand crack and giant roof above from the 4th belay

West Face 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Colchuck Balanced Rock
This is possibly one of the best free routes around in a spectactular setting staring straight at Mt. Stuart.I would recommend roping up for the initial scramble to reach the base of the climb. It is easy, but very loose.P1 Fun but short finger crack(10+). P2 Easy chimney (5.7). P3 Long corner to a nice belay (5.9). P4 Easy pitch up to the base of a clean dihedral. P5 This pitch is a great long hand crack that is often wet, but it is still not that bad when wet (11a). P6 Start out with some...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

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By jonah
Aug 7, 2006

This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.

But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.

Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.

By Sol Wertkin
Aug 28, 2009

Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.