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Coke Explosion is a fun route with short cruxes with the last pitch being the only throw away. To get to the 1st pitch make a tricky high step move to get on an easy slab to a big ledge. There is an anchor to make the down easier.
Pitch 1: Climb a easy right slanting ramp past a tree to a short crux section 5.9.
Pitch 2: Climb a left facing big fingers/tight hands flake above the belay (5.10) making it to a good rest then head toward the short offwidth section to a big finger section to the belay.
Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and then a 5.9 hand section making your way left to another chimney to the top belay from a tree up and left of the climb
Rap the route with 2 60m ropes starting from a slung tree to the right of the route making 3 rappels to get down. If you have 70m ropes it only takes 2 rapples
2 each from fingers to big hands, a #4, #5, #6, long slings
Pitch 1 corner
Following pitch 2's upper fingers corner
Chimney off pitch 3
|Comments on Coke Explosion
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Sep 29, 2013
A fun moderate 5.10 sunny 3 pitch route that's no "Headache" but still fun. The 2nd pitch OW is #6 camalot size, and if you don't bring one its a 12-15 foot run between pieces, though the liebacking is pretty easy, so the #6 is optional. I didn't bring one and it was exciting but fine. A #5 camalot however is pretty necessary to protect the section before the OW. If you don't have a #5 or #6, its more like 25 feet of runout here. The 3rd pitch has an initial section of chimney that's easy, protected by one bolt, and then the #5 is handy in the 2nd section of chimney. I never placed the #4. Summary: double rack from .3 camalot to #2 camalot, 1 #3, 1 #5 camalot. #4/#6 optional.
Pitches 1-2 can easily be rappelled with one 70m rope, but pitch 3 is too long by about 20 feet, so 2 ropes are required unless you want to downclimb the initial 15 foot chimney of pitch 3 to the anchor unroped(unsafe but reasonable in difficulty). Beware of stuck ropes on first rap, you'll see some while climbing pitch 3.
Nov 17, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
We found this to be really fun, with engaging, varied climbing on good rock. It's quite moderate for Zion with maybe two moves of 5.10 but the rest consistent 5.8/9.
I'd call it Grade II, too, you can blast up it in a couple hours pretty easily.
There's a pretty good trail to the base, provided you enter at the right drainage. Hiking up the drainage is improbable, but persevere and you'll find a cairned path to the base of the cliff.