|Type:||Trad, Ice, Snow, 6 pitches, 2000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3 [details]|
|Season:||Year Round, but winter for ice|
|Submitted By:||Jordan Ramey on Jan 3, 2012|
|Comments on Coire Dubh Integrale||Add Comment|
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By Dave Schultz
From: Saratoga Springs, New York
Dec 4, 2014
I did this route in January 2014. I actually thought it was a HUGE BLAST, probably the most fun route in the entire week of climbing in Canada. It had a fun approach (more fun when you go up the wrong drainage first, then a fun bushwhack into the correct one); moderate ice, which we soloed; then some outstanding mixed/rock climbing.
We did the first crux pitch, and belayed before an immediate wandering second pitch. Then soloed a lot of easy terrain (well shown in the Beta Pics). We then looked for the best line, and chose the area in and to the left of the HUGE corner. The first pitch after the long solo was quite steep and the initial section did not have a lot (any) pro until reaching the corner, which had a very thin crack for dry tooling and placing small gear, midway through the first pitch there is an exciting leftward traverse again with not a lot of gear, which deposits you on the face to the left of the main corner and sets you up perfectly to head straight up. We did two or three more pitches to the top.
We brought ice gear (some screws, but never placed any) and a moderate rock rack (probably #1 and #2 C3, #0.3-#2 C4, 6 nuts, 3 or 4 pins). We did end up placing pins on several occasions simply. We did not see any bolts (but they are indicated on the Beta Pic).
With our late start, short January days, and wrong initial approach we topped out the technical section at sunset and it was about 2 hrs to get back to the road staying perfectly on the ridge for the entire descent.
Again, this route was OUTSTANDING and I highly recommend it.