Approach: 50 minutes
Climb: 3 - 6 hours
Descent: 1.5 - 2.5 hours
Car-to-Car: 5 - 11 hours
Sun: little to none in winter
An ultra classic mini-alpine route only 45 minutes from calgary. This route is an awesome day out without to much commitment. It has real ice, snow, and rock climbing, tags a summit (Loder Peak), is never to hard, the rock quality is generally good and the decent isn't to bad. However, depending on snow, the rock pitch can be easy or epic.
From Calgary, take the Seebee exit like you're going to Yam and turn left on the 1A. Parking is the same for Kid Goat & Nanny Goat. Park in a paved lot on the South side of the Highway 1.7 KM East of Continental Lime Plant and right across from the dump. Don't drive up or park on the dump road as you'll probably get towed.
Walk North across the 1A and up the dump road for about 100m to a log section of fence. Follow the well established climbers trail along the East side of the dump right at the fencing. Turn the NE corner of the dump and keep following the fence. Take the second offshoot trail (NOT the wide ATV looking trail) and head along a mostly flat trail that parallels the mountains until you are directly below the route and can see the ice. Head uphill along the climbers left-hand side of the slope to where the ice starts.
6+ ice screws, Cams to 2", & small to medium nuts. Optional: tri-cams are usefull for pockets, maybe some pins.
Two climbers on Doors of Perception to bypass the ... The first ice pitch (ice crux) on Coire Dubh Integ... Coire Dubh Integrale from the approach