Coherent Excitation  5.11 X

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Steve Grossman, Gary Hervert, 1982 Submitted By:  Paul Davidson on Feb 18, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

From Steiger's Guide:

A Grossman "tour de force", one of the most serious leads on the mountain.

Poor protection, questionable rock, long run outs.

While this description was from 1985, one suspects the climb maintains the X rating.

Location 

Climb the face just right of Straight Arrow and left of Ratline.

Starts just left of boulder that Ratline goes over. Bear up and left to a shallow corner then up and right to horn just below the bulge. Turn the bulge and climb some 11X face. Continue up to the Stonedmasters ledge.

Finish to the top ala your pleasure.

If you're clipping any fixed gear, you're off route on Straight Arrow (left) or Ratline (right).

Protection 

A standard Grossman rack.
However, you can probably leave the kitchen sink on the ground for this one. It tends towards the small size.