2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The business of this route is just off the ground - - bring your big gear for this OW/squeeze. Struggle, grunt & cuss your way thru 15 feet of clean off-width, too small to get all the way into, and too big to jam (chicken-wings sorta work). Note that it can be climbed on face holds mostly, if you want to avoid the OW. Then again, why would you be here if that's the goal?
Above, run thru the gully onto the face above, and choose one of many options to the top. Or, take the rap slings to your right back down (about 15' right)(you don't want to belay from these).
I'd just like to add that I have immense respect for those who climb OWs with grace, style & technique - - none of which I possess. This kicked my butt, and I'm sure I provided those on the ground with great entertainment watching me flounder.
You get to use that big stuff that's been hanging uselessly on your rack. 2 #4 Camalots, a #5 is helpful. Several blocks to be slung as well. Upper section appears to take the standard stuff - - nuts & cams.
Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 19, 2003 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard. The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway.
I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece.