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This route climbs up to the obvious stem box / bombay chimney. Start beneath it on a slab and climb up and right to find a crack above a roof that leads up to the box. The bottom section of crack takes lots of pro but when you climb higher up you realize the whole block that you have gear in isn't too solid, but hopefully it will hold.
After the first initial section of crack, you have a handcrack for a couple moves to the base of the box. Place a good, small/medium nut and figure out the moves to get into the stem box. Place a large nut and step out right to the arete and climb easy ground to the top. You should be proficient in placing tricky nuts and TCUs, otherwise it might be somewhat risky.
It might be possible to set up a gear toprope, or use the chains to the left, but it seemed most reasonable to top out and belay above from gear, boulders or trees. Fun stuff. - Casey Bernal
Lots of nuts and TCUs. Up to a #2 cam.
Looking down from just above the crux.
A good view of the box, the crux area.
|By Jason Carter|
From: Monument, CO
Aug 14, 2002
A fine pitch of trad climbing - sews up nicely and the 'bombay' roof is a kick after putting together the moves - the route takes a lot of med to large nuts and small to mid TCUs - the roof can be loaded with small gear before you stem into it and then can be protected again when you're in deep and ready to step out to the right - super fun trad climb in Clear Creek! I guess the anchor bolts were chopped at some point?
Jan 1, 2003
Interesting route... I wasn't totally psyched about my placements lower down, though there are certainly many options for pro. I would recommend getting in a solid nut here and there; one or two of my cam placements just didn't seem a hundred percent. Fun alternative to clipping bolts, though. Alternative way past the roof would be out to the left, though to the right seems easier. Also, there's another decent trad line about 15 feet to the right that tops out through the short dihedral. Don't know the name. Probably 5.9 as well at the top.
|By Kevin Greeley|
Feb 21, 2009
This is a great climb. I led it years ago when I first started climbing, got tunnel vision at the bottom and fell on gear, it held very nicely. I did fall on a stopper, they set nicely and in my experience were bomber. Anyone who is comfortable placing gear should feel comfortable doing this climb.
|By Kevin Capps|
From: Golden, CO
May 27, 2013
Whoever stole my chains on the anchor I put on this route, I would love them back so I can cement them back to the anchor. If you feel like you need to disassemble an anchor to a route, you should stop climbing on fixed anchors and make your own anchor.
From: Golden, CO
May 27, 2013
That's lame.... Stealing anchors is bad mmmkay.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
It looks like you can use the bolt anchors on Pet Semetary as an anchor. The bolts look fairly new. I used a tree and a big block for my anchor as I was top roping by myself and did not want to risk going to the bolts. It looks like they would be a good option if you were leading.