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Coffin Buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C.P.O.D. 
Closed Casket Variation 
Coffin Roof 
Coffin, The 
Exsqueeze Me 
No Star Tuesday 
Rightside Variation 
Strewn Masters of Hore 
Viewing, The 

Coffin Buttress 


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Lat, Long: 40.5739, -111.771 Map
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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...

Description 

The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).


Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Rightside Variation   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Viewing   5.10a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Closed Casket Variation   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Exsqueeze Me   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in Coffin Buttress

Featured Route For Coffin Buttress
Merrill Bitter on a successful ascent, early 1980's

Coffin Roof 5.12  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Coffin Buttress
Power fingerlocks and pinches take you to a sloper. Another pinch and finger crack take you up and over the lip. Follow a 5.7 crack to the top of the Coffin.This was the first 5.12 in LCC...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Coffin Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
The Coffin

The Coffin

Great map of how to approach the coffin

BETA PHOTO: Great map of how to approach the coffin

THE SHARP END!

THE SHARP END!

the coffin buttress

the coffin buttress


Comments on Coffin Buttress Add Comment
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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
May 14, 2004

Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.