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Coffin Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
C.P.O.D. T 
Closed Casket Variation S 
Coffin Roof T 
Coffin, The T 
Exsqueeze Me S 
No Star Tuesday T 
Rightside Variation T 
Strewn Masters of Hore S 
Viewing, The S 

Coffin Buttress  


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Location: 40.5739, -111.771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 62,630
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 24, 2004
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Description 

The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).

Getting There 

Park in the Little Cottonwood lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress.

The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin is to first climb Crescent Crack (5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Rightside Variation   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Viewing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
C.P.O.D.   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Closed Casket Variation   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Exsqueeze Me   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Coffin Roof   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Coffin Buttress

Featured Route For Coffin Buttress
Enjoying a top rope lap after leading the coffin...

The Viewing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Coffin Buttress
The Viewing is an excellent face climb on the right side of the Coffin Buttress. This climb is often toproped from the anchors to the right of the Coffin Crack, which avoids some big runouts between bolts. To do this, set a TR after climbing the Coffin.Climb the fingery 5.9 opening to the Coffin (or traverse in from the left). Keep going up the Coffin until a traverse right is possible above a black chickenhead. This is above the first two bolts and piton on the right for the climb "Closed C...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Coffin Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
 <br /><a href='http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2014/05/lcc-59-coffin.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2014/05...</a>
rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2014/05...
The Coffin
The Coffin
Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican Crack, 2-Crescent Crack (straight up, then obvious curving crack to the right), 3-The Coffin
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
Great map of how to approach the coffin
BETA PHOTO: Great map of how to approach the coffin
Anna with the coffin behind her
Anna with the coffin behind her
THE SHARP END!
THE SHARP END!
Ed Webster attempting the Coffin Roof (5.12a), Little Cottonwood Canyon. Photo: Jay Wilson.
Ed Webster attempting the Coffin Roof (5.12a), Lit...

Comments on Coffin Buttress Add Comment
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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 14, 2004
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.