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Co-Ex is a fantastic single pitch climb on the MF wall. It is considered "the" 5.10 Gunks testpiece... It's rated 10d, but with the correct beta it should feel, oh, about 11a. It's unbelievable to me that the FFA was done in 1967.
Start 20' right of Try Again at a left-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge that's 20 ft. up (a block was broken off here in 2009). Walk 15 ft. right along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up and through the overhang (crux), then step left and up to a bolted anchor.
Tricia approaching the overhang.
|By Ryan Curry|
Oct 18, 2008
A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not; however, the climbing is relatively easy. Aside from that, the route eats gear.
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Be aware that there is 15-20 feet of R/X 5.8 climbing to get to the ledge. Crux is well protected.
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 6, 2009
I don't believe that's correct Paul. I remember getting good gear below the ledge. I'm thinking it was around a #0 TCU or something like that.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009
I seconded this climb, so my comments are based on that perspective.
A fun start to some good face moves lead to a hard crux move. I nearly pumped out trying to make the move over the roof.
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Agree w/ Paul. First 25 feet is 5.8 R/X. Beyond that gear is G. Pins at crux are easily backed up and fall is clean!
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 18, 2012
I followed this today - what a fantastic route. I will come back and lead it someday this year for sure...
|By Jaysen Henderson|
Aug 12, 2012
i lead this today and still dont know the beta....
|By Richard Dana|
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Incredible climb. You can get a blue tcu 10 feet up, but then its 15 feet of 5.8 to a ledge so the last bit is R. The rest is beautifully protected though.
|By The Coop|
Sep 4, 2013
I'd add that the 5.8 runout is pretty straightforward and on positive holds