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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
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Welcome to the Gunks 

Coexistence 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Phil Jacobus, John Hudson, & Peter Armour - 1962
FFA: Rich Goldstone & Jim McCarthy - 1967
Page Views: 6,913
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
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Darek Kuczynski fully focused on the CoEx crux. Ey...

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Description 

Co-Ex is a fantastic single pitch climb on the MF wall. It is considered "the" 5.10 Gunks testpiece... It's rated 10d, but with the correct beta it should feel, oh, about 11a. It's unbelievable to me that the FFA was done in 1967.

Start 20' right of Try Again at a left-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge that's 20 ft. up (a block was broken off here in 2009). Walk 15 ft. right along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up and through the overhang (crux), then step left and up to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard Rack.



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Tricia approaching the overhang.
Tricia approaching the overhang.
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By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008

A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not; however, the climbing is relatively easy. Aside from that, the route eats gear.

By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Be aware that there is 15-20 feet of R/X 5.8 climbing to get to the ledge. Crux is well protected.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 6, 2009

I don't believe that's correct Paul. I remember getting good gear below the ledge. I'm thinking it was around a #0 TCU or something like that.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009

I seconded this climb, so my comments are based on that perspective.

A fun start to some good face moves lead to a hard crux move. I nearly pumped out trying to make the move over the roof.

By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Agree w/ Paul. First 25 feet is 5.8 R/X. Beyond that gear is G. Pins at crux are easily backed up and fall is clean!

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 18, 2012

I followed this today - what a fantastic route. I will come back and lead it someday this year for sure...

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Aug 12, 2012

i lead this today and still dont know the beta....

By Richard Dana
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Incredible climb. You can get a blue tcu 10 feet up, but then its 15 feet of 5.8 to a ledge so the last bit is R. The rest is beautifully protected though.

By The Coop
Sep 4, 2013

I'd add that the 5.8 runout is pretty straightforward and on positive holds