Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
P.A.'s Mother
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Altar Boy 
Archbishop, The 
Coed Crack 
E.B. Jeebies 
Exposed Cleavage 
High Hopes 
Hobnail Arete 
Mama's Boy 
Mother of Invention 
R.R. Crossing 
Regular Route 
Throulin's Chimney 
Throulin's Crack 
Tough Guy 
Two Pinches to Paradise 

Coed Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 896
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 13, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: South Face of P.A.'s Mother
12 Coed Crack 5.6


Coed Crack starts with about 6 or 7 feet of easy, not-quite vertical climbing, then easy, low-angled climbing following a shallow, flaring, offwidth crack until the face goes vertical about 10 feet before the end of the climb. The climbing is essentially all face holds, although I suppose if you really wanted to you could get in an offwidth move or two near the top.


Coed Crack is on a south face a few hundred feet past the gate on the north side of the canyon, across the creek and after a short, easy scramble through scrub oak to the base. Descent is via rappel or walk off around to the Northeast.


Mostly wide stuff. I used 2 #1 Camalot C4s near the bottom, a #5 C4 near the middle, slung a horn, and used a #6 C4 at the start of the vertical section. The vertical section is bigger than a #6. There is a two-chain anchor on top on the left side.

Photos of Coed Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Ethan seconding. That #5 C4 is almost as big as he is - and he still has to get the #6.
Ethan seconding. That #5 C4 is almost as big...
I had a good enough knee bar at the crux wide part near the top that I figured I'd take a picture.
I had a good enough knee bar at the crux wide part...
Comments on Coed Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Oct 13, 2006

Although I didn't care much for this route, I should note that my 11-year-old son thought it was pretty fun.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Thailand
Oct 24, 2008

Did this route for the first time today and I really enjoyed it. I took a set of nuts and cams from .75 to #6 Camalot. I placed two nuts and .75, 1, 2, 5, and 6 Camalots, along with the green Big Bro (#3, I think). I should have taken the blue one (#4?) for near the top, but a #6 Camalot was good enough. I also should have taken more finger-sized cams, but it wasn't a big deal and I was able to get nuts in just fine.

I don't think this route gets done very much. I've actually never seen anyone on it, and there are plants and spiderwebs everywhere. Near the top, the crack is bigger than I thought it was. I was able to get most of my left side in it and it was almost a squeeze chimney (I'm pretty skinny). I toproped it again after I led it and used the face holds to the left of the crack near the top. They're huge! Fun!

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009

Did this last fall. Most of the route leaves something to be desired. The upper part is good offwidth practice. I also climbed it on the face to the left and the holds were huge as well.