Coed Crack 5.6
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BETA PHOTO: South Face of P.A.'s Mother
12 Coed Crack 5.6
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Description Coed Crack starts with about 6 or 7 feet of easy, not-quite vertical climbing, then easy, low-angled climbing following a shallow, flaring, offwidth crack until the face goes vertical about 10 feet before the end of the climb. The climbing is essentially all face holds, although I suppose if you really wanted to you could get in an offwidth move or two near the top.
Location Coed Crack is on a south face a few hundred feet past the gate on the north side of the canyon, across the creek and after a short, easy scramble through scrub oak to the base. Descent is via rappel or walk off around to the Northeast.
Protection Mostly wide stuff. I used 2 #1 Camalot C4s near the bottom, a #5 C4 near the middle, slung a horn, and used a #6 C4 at the start of the vertical section. The vertical section is bigger than a #6. There is a two-chain anchor on top on the left side.
Ethan seconding. That #5 C4 is almost as big...
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I had a good enough knee bar at the crux wide part...
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Oct 13, 2006
| Although I didn't care much for this route, I should note that my 11-year-old son thought it was pretty fun. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Oct 24, 2008
| Did this route for the first time today and I really enjoyed it. I took a set of nuts and cams from .75 to #6 Camalot. I placed two nuts and .75, 1, 2, 5, and 6 Camalots, along with the green Big Bro (#3, I think). I should have taken the blue one (#4?) for near the top, but a #6 Camalot was good enough. I also should have taken more finger-sized cams, but it wasn't a big deal and I was able to get nuts in just fine.
I don't think this route gets done very much. I've actually never seen anyone on it, and there are plants and spiderwebs everywhere. Near the top, the crack is bigger than I thought it was. I was able to get most of my left side in it and it was almost a squeeze chimney (I'm pretty skinny). I toproped it again after I led it and used the face holds to the left of the crack near the top. They're huge! Fun! |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 12, 2009
| Did this last fall. Most of the route leaves something to be desired. The upper part is good offwidth practice. I also climbed it on the face to the left and the holds were huge as well. |
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