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Cody Ice Festival Shenanigans
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By Matias Francis
Feb 23, 2014
Great Northern Slab

I believe that any defacing of the all na-tur-al rock is unacceptable. i've experienced first hand climbers spray painting routes so that other members of their party could follow the line. i've seen people bring chisels and chisel at the bottom of boulder problems. And now reading this thread just makes me laugh thinking that some people actually defend the use of dry tooling on ESTABLISHED routes. bring on the comments.........


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By RobC2
Feb 23, 2014
This..

Ice tools certainly mark up the rock. All the granite crags in Rocky that see dry tooling are heavily scarred...


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By Tom-o Sapien
Feb 23, 2014
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

What became of the breakfast roast beat down?


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By Jim Amidon
Feb 23, 2014
What ??

OMG


REMOVE THOSE UNSIGHTLY AND UGLY BOLTS AND LET THE ROCK BE


I mean the rock was defaced when it was bolted, shiny things all over the place, how can I enjoy my roadside garbage dump with these unsightly things there reflecting sunshine off of the natural rock while I look at the views of the man made lake across the way with the tourist traffic driving by on the way to Yellowstone......

I hope some of you pukes actually show up to talk to Don........

I wasn't there but have been to numerous festivals before and Don has always been accommodating and extremely friendly to all that come....

Maybe y'all just should only go to Ouray, and TR to your hearts delight and then attend each event the festival has and be prepared to pay up to $25 dollars for every door you walk thru..........

Bunch of posers.......


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Feb 23, 2014
Sure, I can belay

Jim Amidon wrote:
OMG REMOVE THOSE UNSIGHTLY AND UGLY BOLTS AND LET THE ROCK BE I mean the rock was defaced when it was bolted, shiny things all over the place, how can I enjoy my roadside garbage dump with these unsightly things there reflecting sunshine off of the natural rock while I look at the views of the man made lake across the way with the tourist traffic driving by on the way to Yellowstone...... I hope some of you pukes actually show up to talk to Don........ I wasn't there but have been to numerous festivals before and Don has always been accommodating and extremely friendly to all that come.... Maybe y'all just should only go to Ouray, and TR to your hearts delight and then attend each event the festival has and be prepared to pay up to $25 dollars for every door you walk thru.......... Bunch of posers.......


So Jim, your hostility and anger comes through loud and clear to me, but not your point.

Are you suggesting that because the crag was "damaged" (I prefer the word changed, FWIW) by bolts, then anything goes? Because every route that gets done, even by stealth soloist first ascensionists is changed and "damaged" in some way. So by extension, every route is fair game for anyone to modify however they wish?


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By Matias Francis
Feb 23, 2014
Great Northern Slab

So by extension, every route is fair game for anyone to modify however they wish?

are you kidding me??? Nooo... imagine if someone bolted some classic big wall line like astroman, or freerider. those grades would be diminished and their popularity would skyrocket leaving yosemite to become a sport climbers mecca not a climbing mecca. Every bolt that anyone has placed was thought out and each bolt has its consequence. Just look at somewhere like exit 38 (washington) THAT PLACE IS CROWDED


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Feb 23, 2014
Sure, I can belay

Brock Smith wrote:
The granite at the island falls somewhere between 6 and 7 on the mohs hardness scale which is the standard for measuring the hardness of minerals, if you look at this link it shows that steel does not scratch a mineral with of this hardness. Sorry to prove you wrong with science but that is what educated people do. This being said I promise that I will never be dry tooling any established rock routes again obviously, although I didn't plan on it as I posted earlier. My earlier post about fremont canyon and the rushmore needles was more about comparing the rock quality of this area to more well know crags than to say "I was going to go dry tool them"


Brock, are you still arguing that ice tools don't damage granite? Because I'll bet that anyone who's actually spent much time around mixed crags would disagree with you.

Also, your initial post, since edited, certainly gave me the impression that you wouldn't mind if folks dry tooled on your local crags of Fremont Canyon and the Black Hills. Have you changed your mind? Consulted other locals on their opinion?

Furthermore, are you still suggesting that it's ok to travel to someone else's crag and dry tool there, over their objections? Not exactly being a considerate visitor!


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By Mees
From Iowa
Feb 24, 2014

Well it seems the bi-polar alpinist's tails are tucking and stories are changing. Only a few days ago Brock was inviting everyone to dry tool Fremont Canyon and the Black Hills-- apparently the mohs scale of his skull didn't prevent him from realizing the sidewalk justice awaiting him --NOW he's not going to do that? Big surprise Brock,
but I'd love for you to try it somewhere more crowded I dare you!

Don's story is changing too, almost as fast as his own biography. Up until last week on his website codyiceclimbingfestival.com/ his bio stated how much he climbed with Todd and all of the rest of the people that have actually pioneered ice climbing in the S. Fork. 2 or 3 of those guys I know for a fact have never met or climbed with You Don, ever. The everchanging bio now states "Don was introduced to the sport of ďice climbing by the published 1991 pocket map of the south fork valley. " While I doubt you proofread that Don, it is actually the closest thing to the truth you've likely ever published about your ice experience. Maybe now Todd can quit asking you to remove any association with him that you've been claiming all of these years. How many times has he asked you to remove false claims like that on your festival's websites? You know, if you actually did climb in Shoshone canyon with any regularity you wouldn't be the 1st guy in line to ruin it. you would be trying to protect it just like those who have actually spent time and $ developing/climbing there. thanks for opening up this activity to the canyon though
you certainly found a way to leave your mark.

Anyway, it will be interesting to see how this all shakes out considering the different takes on this issue, not only in NW Wyoming but at areas all over the globe. I don't pretend to own the rock and people can certainly chose to do what they want to it. All I can really do is chose to not support companies that support dry tooling at established free climbing areas. I don't see dry tooling at established rock climbing areas as being a very sustainable activity. At the same time I 100% support mixed climbers wanting to perfect their skills. If you want to practice dry tooling why not do it somewhere that isn't going to ruin someone else's day/ free climbs and more importantly , be closer to the medium that you are training for? Most free climbing areas aren't going to simulate the rock or terrain a climber is going to find on an alpine/mixed route anyway. The island vs S. Fork rock is a perfect example of that.

Todd, Mike, Kirt and others thanks for stepping up , most people don't have the back bone or want to get involved in something like this I appreciate that you guys have some respect for the places we grew up climbing at and are willing to voice your concern.
climb safe and have fun out there.


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By Buff Johnson
Feb 24, 2014
smiley face

Sure you can tool, but don't be a Tool, Fool!
Sure you can tool, but don't be a Tool, Fool!


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By Don Foote
Feb 27, 2014

Patrick Scott Mees-
I've heard rumors about you.... is this the same Pat Mees who dropped a rope trying to take his girlfriend ice climbing in Cody and spent the night freezing your tails off in the south fork valley and now you live in Morian, Iowa?
Have you thought about how ridiculous these posts are hurting the industry of both ice and rock. The great sponsors who support Cody Ice Climbing Festival also support many across Wyoming. I know you donít live here and you enjoy your social media but try to have some courtesy for other great events like Ten Sleep, Lander, Vedauwoo, Devilís Tower, Access Fund, American Alpine Club and even the new Bighorn Climbers Coalition and their board of directors.
Iíve meet face to face with Todd and Mike and yet you keep the fire going. Well Pat, I don't need to pour fuel on the social media fire so why donít you email me and we can talk like adults. I might be passing thru Iowa next month so I can stop and see youÖ

Don Foote JR
Cody Ice Climbing Festival
donfoote@southforkice.com


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By The Blueprint Part Dank
Feb 28, 2014
Manning face

Jesus's, get a room. All of you. So lame. This has been the funniest MP thread in a while. Not only has this horse been beaten past death, I think you're beating the stomachs of the Mongolians who grilled and ate the dead horse.

Highlights of the absurdity:

1. Brock Smith's posts arguing ethics. LOLz bro, you were taking a clinic, immediately invalidating your opinion as a climber in my book.
2. The dude who went to Wikipedia to see the hardness scale of the granite. Claiming that "science" proved that there was no way the tools could have gouged the rock. Except, for, you know. The pictures showing it had.
3. The offers to "meet up to discuss things". Where I come from. That means that there's going to to be a brawl. Though I assume that, in this scenario, all that resulted was the drinking of espresso and kind words.
4. The fact that is Mees dude just absolutely flipped his shit on this Snyder dude, and it took over a week for it to come out that dude bro dropped his rope ice climbing with his girlfriend. Then moved to Iowa (which, appropriately enough stands for "Idiots Out Walking Around") that would have been good info to have earlier, because it pretty much makes me disrespect his insight completely (see highlight #1)


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By Tom-o Sapien
Feb 28, 2014
Conky and I confront Patrick Swayze

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:
Jesus's, get a room. All of you. So lame. This has been the funniest MP thread in a while. Not only has this horse been beaten past death, I think you're beating the stomachs of the Mongolians who grilled and ate the dead horse. Highlights of the absurdity: 1. Brock Smith's posts arguing ethics. LOLz bro, you were taking a clinic, immediately invalidating your opinion as a climber in my book. 2. The dude who went to Wikipedia to see the hardness scale of the granite. Claiming that "science" proved that there was no way the tools could have gouged the rock. Except, for, you know. The pictures showing it had. 3. The offers to "meet up to discuss things". Where I come from. That means that there's going to to be a brawl. Though I assume that, in this scenario, all that resulted was the drinking of espresso and kind words. 4. The fact that is Mees dude just absolutely flipped his shit on this Snyder dude, and it took over a week for it to come out that dude bro dropped his rope ice climbing with his girlfriend. Then moved to Iowa (which, appropriately enough stands for "Idiots Out Walking Around") that would have been good info to have earlier, because it pretty much makes me disrespect his insight completely (see highlight #1)

:^)


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By Adam Burch
From San Dieger
Feb 28, 2014
Mexico, Mang

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote:
Jesus's, get a room. All of you. So lame. This has been the funniest MP thread in a while. Not only has this horse been beaten past death, I think you're beating the stomachs of the Mongolians who grilled and ate the dead horse. Highlights of the absurdity: 1. Brock Smith's posts arguing ethics. LOLz bro, you were taking a clinic, immediately invalidating your opinion as a climber in my book. 2. The dude who went to Wikipedia to see the hardness scale of the granite. Claiming that "science" proved that there was no way the tools could have gouged the rock. Except, for, you know. The pictures showing it had. 3. The offers to "meet up to discuss things". Where I come from. That means that there's going to to be a brawl. Though I assume that, in this scenario, all that resulted was the drinking of espresso and kind words. 4. The fact that is Mees dude just absolutely flipped his shit on this Snyder dude, and it took over a week for it to come out that dude bro dropped his rope ice climbing with his girlfriend. Then moved to Iowa (which, appropriately enough stands for "Idiots Out Walking Around") that would have been good info to have earlier, because it pretty much makes me disrespect his insight completely (see highlight #1)


This is quite possibly the greatest thing I've ever read on MP, and that includes the beta on Open Book at Tahquitz.


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