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Spaghetti Western Wall Area
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Code of the West 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Miller, Josh Smith, James Hunter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Mar 22, 2009
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Description 

The crack that splits the middle of the Spaghetti Western Wall. One of the best hard crack lines around. A bolt protects the first crux and keeps you off a ledge, and a couple more help you through the slab to the rest of the crack. Don't stop at the Cowboy Up anchors; keep going to the second set at the top.


Location 

Middle of the Spaghetti Western Wall.


Protection 

Gear to #2 and three bolts. Heavy on the finger sizes. Anchors.



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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Fun climbing on good rock, kind of like a harder version of Cowboy Up. Protects well, though the pro takes a bit of thought to place. Though the rack beta suggests to go heavy on the finger sizes, I was happy to have more fingertip-sized pro and a good selection of nuts.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 16, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I second Daniel's gear suggestion of smaller-than-fingers gear. In addition to a purple link cam I was very happy to have two .3 BD cams, a red C3 and a green C3. It's a fun, bouldery route protected by some gear and the two bolts protect the cruxes well. Nice and unique.

By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Apr 22, 2013

TR'd this (to the Cowboy up anchors), too see whether a lead attempt would be reasonable for me. Not so. While I think the 11d is spot on, the climb was much more sustained then I thought. There is pretty much no crack technique required (excluding the last part to the actual anchors of the route) and I agree with Daniel that it feels like a harder version of Cowboy up. I found it so sustained that I think I would not have been able to place a single piece after the first bolt. I even had a very hard time un-clipping the draws while TRing.