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Little Wilson
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Code 3 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,439
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Jul 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Pat on steeeep jugs!

Description 

Steep jugs! No other way to describe this area classic. Probably the best route on the wall and deservedly so.

Gain the ledge below the route by either starting out left (harder) or out right. Traverse the big ledge to get below the first bolt on the route. Start cranking on the jugs to get to the first bolt. Make a slightly reach move to get to the first section of steepness. Clip another bolt and the wall goes back to vertical. Get another bolt just below the big roof. Move up and left to gain the next big ledge and clip the bolt at the edge of the big roof out right. Surmount the final roof and clip the sport shuts.


Location 

The route starts around the arete with the project inside the steep dihedral. Look for big chalked up jugs through some steep rock. Only route with sport shuts.


Protection 

4 bolts to sport shuts. A 60m will get you down.



Photos of Code 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Eric making the final moves to the shuts.
Eric making the final moves to the shuts.
Getting into the steepness above the first bolt.  Great route!
BETA PHOTO: Getting into the steepness above the first bolt. ...
"Resting" in the steepness.
"Resting" in the steepness.
Christian with the catch
Christian with the catch
Comments on Code 3 Add Comment
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By Ryan Beasley
Sep 3, 2012

This route was originally rated 5.10b/c.

By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Mar 3, 2013

Definitely not 11a. It will make you feel stronger though if you tell yourself it is and flash it!

By Rick Carpenter
From: Banner Elk, NC
Dec 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Isn't that steep and every hold is a jug, this is .10a/b at best.

By double delay
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 15, 2014

agree with the 10+ rating. 11a isn't totally unwarranted as the climb is longer and steeper than most boone climbs