Coconut Bliss  M4-5

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Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches Consensus:  M4 [details] FA:  Norie Kizaki & Dave Wolf, May 30, 2011 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  DW. on May 31, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Approaching the first roof.

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Description 

Coconut Bliss is a delicious, "non dairy" ice cream (whatever that means). Likewise, this route is another installment of "non ice" climbing on the Tastee Freeze buttress.

From the base, follow the chimney system up to a roof formed by a wedged block. Climb through the roof on hand jams and hooks to another small roof. Mantel above this roof and follow excellent turf sticks up and right toward the top of the first buttress, 200'.

Continue up the buttress or make a double rope rappel to the ground from a nearby tree.

P2: climb a short chimney through a steep rock band (loose getting into the chimney).

P3: this is followed by fun, juggy climbing up the narrowing buttress and a final steep step guarding the trees.

Walk off left: down the ridge to a saddle, then back left under the cliff to the foot of the route (only advisable in stable snow). The route would be more fun with more snow, but it was still pretty fun.

Location 

Coconut Bliss is located on the left side of the Tastee Freeze buttress, at a prominent chimney system through two short roof bands, downhill from Tastee Freeze. See the Tastee Freeze route location info for directions on how to reach the buttress.

Protection 

Rock gear. Nuts and cams up to #2.

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Coconut Bliss - green; Tastee Freeze - r...